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Mixing Valve

Dave_16
Dave_16 Member Posts: 51
in THE MAIN WALL
I have inherited a hot water heating system where the previous owner added a (staple-up, under-floor) radiant loop on to a baseboard system via it's own circulator. To get the temp down to 120F, he used a 1-inch manual mixing valve on the radiant return line. The boiler is new, with outdoor reset, so it generates up to 190F water. So far, the manual valve works nicely as long as I check the temperature gauge on the radiant loop every couple of weeks, although I haven't yet had to change it since I got it dialed in to 120.

However (surprise, surprise) I don't the guy installed it right, because it leaks almost constantly and he globbed on a ton of thread sealant on. It threads on to some sort of copper sweat-to-thread fittings - looks like NPT, but I can't tell yet.

So, before I replace it and install it correctly, should I consider an automatic valve with a temperature feedback controller? Like I said, so far I seem to be able to control it to 120F - but I'm not sure about transient temps, whether it heats up fast or not.

Comments

  • hydronicsmike
    hydronicsmike Member Posts: 855
    tekmar, TACO

    Some options that you are not limited to are the following:

    tekmar Mixing Control 360 with (any) 3- or 4-Way Mixing Valve and Actuating Motor OR TACO I-Series Mixing Valves. In either case, you would be getting Outdoor Reset and Boiler Protection.

    A manual set Valve can never guarantee Boiler Protection. You need a motorized device for that, as the load changes and return water temperature changes as a result of it. Other benefits include increased Comfort Level and increased Fuel Savings.

    I hope this helps.

    Mike
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