Ok, how'd I do?

Bob Chauvot

Ok, I'm ready for ya to take a look and tell me how I did on my installation. Yea it's ok I can take constructive criticism. (:<) I remove my decades old Bryant and replaced it with a nice new Crown. It's working fantastic.
A before and after pic for you to see. Peace
Bob

Dave Stroman

Is not there something about using galv. nipples in a heating system? And what about the 30" clearence you need in front of the boiler? And I know it is not part of your work but the releif valve on the water heater needs a 3/4" discharge pipe.

Dave in Denver

gerry gill

hard to see the risers from that picture,

but are you not going to crack the boiler plumbing it in that fashion..

Mark Hunt

Well


Your header is wrong.

You've got two steam risers aimed at each other with the system take-offs in the middle. Both risers should have steam moving in the same direction, not into each other as you have piped it. Your system take-offs would come after that, and then your equalizer. The equalizer acts as a condensate drip for the header so you should have reduced the pipe size on the verticle drop, not the horizontal main.

There is also no "swing joint" to allow for the different expansion between the boiler block and the connected header.

How did you skim the boiler?


Mark H

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kevin coppinger_4

the zinc in galvy...

can flake off and cause problems. Relief valve is not a t&p from 1st looks. Bullheaded tee atop riser to equalizer...steam will not know where to go. How does it sound? How does the waterline look as it runs? Should have a sediment tee before the gas valve. kpc

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Dave Stroman

Looks like there is only one riser.

Dave in Denver

Dave Stroman

Or not.

Dave in Denver

Mark Hunt

I see two risers


Look close. He came off both boiler supply taps.

Mark H

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Mark Hunt

Page 14 of the instruction manual


has the correct piping diagrams

It also shows incorrect piping.

Mark H

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Ken_8

I wouldn't quit

my day job!

A bit more attention to the manufacturer's piping schematics would have been one improvement. The location of the hartford loop looks no where near 2" inches below the NOWL, BM fittings and galvanized pipe are not the best options, but other than those three points, it looks sweet.

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Robert O'Connor_7

You asked for it!

The header is wrong, (should have made your two main take offs after the boiler risers). Screws for the smoke pipe are required (3 for each piece). Hartford loop connections seems off. Galvanized & black (although not a code violation) not good together. No swing joints on boiler risers (these are needed for expansion). No pitch on header towards the equalizer (and even if there were, the bushing would negate any useful benefit). Where is your gas cock and union? Why are there two electric lines going to the boiler? Where is the T-Stat wire and water connection with a backflow preventer? Straps are required to hold EMT and a hanger or support of some kind would be nice on the gas line. You must also enter the pipe into the fitting all the way (on the smoke pipe) Also where is your combustion air comming from? The return tapping really should be a tee with a drain too. Was the asbestos properly abated and disposed of?? Last but not least, Is that even a temperature and pressure relief valve, or is it just pressure (on the HWH)ANY reducing of this valves discharge is BAAAAAD!! But other than those few things, It looks great..Robert O'Connor/NJ

Bill_39

looks like a homeowner did it.

Blackoakbob

pressuretrol....

doesn't look like it is wire in the circuit at all!! Take the time to make the changes suggested and have a warm, safe winter. Also, let us know where you purchased this unit so I know who NOT to buy from. Regards,

tommyoil

you have no choice

but to re-pipe. Theres NO WAY that this system "works great". It was a valiant effort though. It seems as though you have half an idea about what needs to be done as far as screwing all the pipe together. If you would only OPEN THE MANUAL and read the piping section of the instructions you would have had it right. Also, and this is a big one, where is the wiring to the pressure control? Is it invisible? If your pressure control is not wired in, SHUT OFF THE BOILER and get it wired. Also, when you are re-piping, get a drain(s) on the pipework to drain the boiler from that side. One factory installed boiler drain is not enough. I'm sure you've heard the expression "close, but no cigar". Good luck! Keep us posted. Looks like the ability is there. You just need to fine tune your approach.