Leak in cast iron boiler section

jeff_36

We have a pinhole leak on the inside of the fire box on one of our Peerless(50hp 15psi) steam boiler cast iron sections.

It's location is difficult to drill.

Is there a high temperture sealant, ceramic or epoxy/& or metal coupon patch we may use to extend the life of the boiler (with out tearing it apart)?
(ie. Aremco pyro-putty 2400)

How about brazing?

mark_40

Absolutely Not !

you need to replace the section ....

mark_40

Well .....

ASME ... does allow you to " peen" a leak ... but it doesn't sound like that will help you if it's big enuff you were thinkin' to "drill "

Mike T., Swampeast MO

JB Weld is some amazing stuff. It's a two-part epoxy with a heavy dose of metal dust to help it expand/contract similarly to metal. Have used it successfully for a number of thin tube rads, but never a boiler.

I've watched people try (unsuccessfully) to braze cast iron--if there is any sort of crack the heat of brazing makes it grow. Haven't seen it done successfully but have heard of two ways:

1) Heat the cast iron to around 500° before brazing. I won't say AT ALL to do this but perhaps a VERY careful incremental dry firing to get the thing quite hot?

2) If cracked, drill small "strain relief" holes at each end.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Given the other replies that arrived, FORGET the previous message!!!!

mark_40

Dry Fire !

the boiler ... watta ya smokin, mike ... a drip a water gonna make that section Blow !

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Utterly sober at the time but thinking in bizarre, ideal terms. Please forgive!

oil-2-4-6-gas

.

hire a Pro--there is chemical that can be put in to temporarily seal it (its hit or miss dependant of location and size of the leak)this is a temporary fix --it gives enough time to get prices and get moving on replacing --

jeff_36

Section leak

Re "blowing up" boiler ran with this leak for a month?

I thought you could repair a small leak in cast iron?

What about welding with one of those "cast iron" rods?

What is opinion on a Smith 28 "High Efficency" vs a regular steam boiler for the same burner(CF2300)?
How about their graphite port connectors?

mark_40

leakers ...

90% of the leakers we fix are Smith 28's ......

Rudy

Smith 28HE

Jeff,

The Smith graphite port connectors have been out for two years and have been VERY successful. Still easy to assemble like a gasket, yet the longevity and durability of push nipple. Impervious to any sort of chemicals, and handles up to 2500 degrees. Graphite will not be an issue down the road.
Smith does not have a leaking problem on our 28s. Most jobs we go out on with failures is due to system problems. Are we perfect, no. Every manufacturer has some failures (they're lying if the say they don't). But we always look to work with the owners and contractors to resolve the problem, whether it be a defect or a system or installation problem, we want to find the cause and assist in the resolution. If you ever have a problem, feel free to call me.
The 28HE would be excellent for a steam application, but we would not want to use an existing burner. The increased insulation and the heat transfer rods allow us get up to 86% combustion efficiency and 85% thermal efficiency, but we have had to make some adjustments to the standard burners because of the increased back pressure. Your existing burner has not been tested and we would not recommend reusing it. The 28HE payback period in savings to the owner can be as quick as one year. Nobody else makes a high efficient cast iron steam boiler.
Jeff, where are you located?

Kevin O'Rourke
781-740-4744

Rudy

leakers

Mark,

We would love the opportunity to work with you on any of these problem/leaker jobs you have. Are there issues on the job that created these leaks, and thus, by replacing the section you are only solving the problem, but not the cause? Are we both throwing good money after bad?
Where are you located and do you have any specific jobs we could discuss? I would love to speak with you or have you speak to my factory direct rep in your territory.
Please feel free to call me

Kevin O'Rourke
NE Sales Manager-Smith
781-740-4744

Kal Row

you got #3 right

drilling the end of a crack, is, according to faa rules, a flight worthy way to stop crack progression – and if it's good enough for jets it's good enough for boilers!!

after that, the jbeld would work if you were able to patch it from the inside with a peice of cast iron

for real:
anyway to change the section you need to take it enough apart, that it makes sense to go with a newer more efficient boiler

oil-2-4-6-gas

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Kevin i would like to make a suggestion i do a lot of commercial and deal with the 28a's smaller 19a's 1 big problem i see and try rectify is the fact that most of the larger boilers have modulating burners yet no low fire hold for a cold start situation-------i found a lot of 28's peeing on the floor this year

Rudy

leakers

That's an excellent suggestion. I will be sure to forward it to all my factory people. Unfortunately, alot of times it starts at the engineer level and we don't know about the situation until after the fact, always alot more difficult to resolve then. We will continue to try and educate all involved, the engineers to installers to building owners. Thanks for the suggestion and help.

Kevin 781-740-4744