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HOT WATER HEATER
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Member Posts: 6,106
come with heat trapper nipples these days. A small, thin rubber flapper slow helps this heat movement.
If you start adding check valves you may need to add a thermal expansion tank to prevent excessive pressure from pop-ing you relief valve. Or worse if it happens to be stuck! :)
hot rod
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If you start adding check valves you may need to add a thermal expansion tank to prevent excessive pressure from pop-ing you relief valve. Or worse if it happens to be stuck! :)
hot rod
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HOT WATER HEATER
I turned up the temperature on my water heater. the problem is that the heat from the water heater is going into the cold water line--- making the cold water lines hot.Would a flow check or ball solve this gravity heating of the cold water line? Please help.
Thanks,
Tariq0 -
HOT WATER HEATER
If I wanted to put a exspansion tank, would I install it in the hot water line --- say -- somewhere near the water? If I may ask, what would be the charge on the tank? Would the tank pressure charge be equal to the water line pressure?0 -
Cold side...
If you add an expansion tank, it should be on the cold side of your water heater.0 -
heat trap
Hello: A question is, how much hot water is getting into the cold line? If it is just a little, thermal expansion is likely the problem. If there is more, the pipes may be allowing convection to take place, where hot water rises up into the cold line. You may want to install a deep heat trap, (say a foot) to prevent this. A cross connection somewhere in the system could affect things too. Hope that helps.0 -
Expansion tank
If you do get an expansion tank make sure it's NOT the heating type but rather one rated for potable water. Higher pressure and rust protection from the O2 in the city water.0 -
Should have asked
Are you on city water or your own well? Alot of hot water can go back to the cold side if the check valve on the bottom of the well is bad.0 -
migration
often indicates a cross-connection point is setting up gravity circulation. The first place we look for this problem, is the ACW solenoid valve. Beyond that, we've found a number of sources - including some fancy European imported single-lever faucets. Once the home's plumbing system has been at rest (typically overnight), it's often just a matter of following the now-hot normally-cold line back to the problem faucet or solenoid valve.
A TXT is warranted if your incoming service line has a PRV or a BFP.
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Check your washing machine
valves if both hot and cold are open then it can back feed through the washing machine. A good way to test is shut off both valves to washing machine. If it stops you have found the problem.0 -
Hot Water Heater
First, I want to thank all of you for your help. You have been very generous,again,thanks.
I think I have I dentified the source of my problem. Upon, physically feeling the cold water pipes around heater,it has been reveled that the cold water pipe is being heated by the water hearer through convection.
My only other question is,where do I install the exspansion tank in relation to check valve? Is the tank put on the water heater side of check valve, or is the tank put on the other side (water side) ?. I have city water, no well.
THANKS.0 -
heat trap
Hello: For convection, all you need is a heat trap. I'd run a long copper flex line up, off the tank, just over a foot. Bend it 180 degrees so it points down. Run your supply pipe down close to the top of the tank and then back up to connect to the flex line. This gives you a heat trap about a foot deep and will take care of convection. Insulate the cold line back five feet from the heater if possible and you're set.
Endeavor not to put anything, like a check valve, in the cold supply to the heater unless there is no better option. Hope that helps.0
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