BAD NOZZLE DELAYED IGNITION?

BOB WILLARD

Been working on burners for years-We all know that a bad ing transformer /electrodes not set correctly/ too much air--will cause delayed ignition--My question is--could a new installed nozzle cause delayed ignition? This would be the first one for me--If so... Hago nozzle .75 70 H Hot air unit VERT... Thanks DAVID.......

Firedragon_4

Absolutely!

If the 'Circle of Combustion' is not complete than 'anything goes'!

Some teach the pyramid, I like the circle, Oilheat 101.

lchmb

agree

with Firedragon on this one, have seen a few partially plugged nozzles that toss the proper pattern out the window. Most of those I personally find you can visibly see a real wavy flame.

J.C.A._3

Couple other things to consider,

How long has a nozzle been sitting around. Does the supplier move product fast and furious, or do things sit longer than they should.

Another thing to consider, especially with new equipment is... was it tested before leaving the factory. If you've got a test sheet with results printed, it was, And was tested in the unit you're trying to make it work in.Difference being, the test unit may have been on line for a few years, where yours is new and doesn't have any of the build-up of "products of combustion" that the one they're testing it in does. If that burner sat on the shelf for (even) a few months, you might as well toss all those numbers aside because things HAVE changed since then.

I just did a job with 2 Propane boilers, side by side. The guys doing the plumbing thought I was a bit twisted when I marked the "factory sheets" for each burner, right and left.
When I showed them the factory test sheets, they got the point. 2 different people signing off on each particular burner, and the time between was about 4 months.Slight variations in the settings and a personal touch to each one that I received. Maybe "The Factory" doesn't have the ability to predict EVERY situation that you're going to come across?

Things are going to be different than the "factory settings" in MOST situations.The only way to read this is to test, and know what the readings are teaching YOU to do.

Small or Big, TESTING is the only way to know what the fire your trying to make is right. Seeing something is but a clue. Testing is the SURE way to find out if you are right. Chris.

Weezbo

rattel a nozzel about in a service truck.......

have someone put their grimy Mitts on it....these things too have a direct bearing on the integrity of a nozzel. so...indeed pilot error can occasionaly produce quite unexpected results on start up. and as far as testing is concerned i never met a oil fired burner that Didnt need it:) ) the pump while i would Hate to condem it can produce some really wack readings on the jump street. 5 days ago a call came sounds like no oil says i...melted drive coupler... no oil pressure figured it was the pump...:(sometimes we have so much work to do its all i can do to keep with the new construction, fixing forced air temp heat burners that have had tons of pva and sheetrock mud inhaled at a fast clip aint my favorite...sometimes the atmosphere can frick with start up i guess is what i am saying:)

Firedragon_4

Chris, Chris, Chris

you are the best, my young Jedi!

The reason why no factory will ever get the settings right is due to three things; air temperature, fuel temperature, and my personal favorite the most mis-understood science of all, D-R-A-F-T!

No one knows it all about draft, FACT! One book, 72 articles and I learn more about this every day!

J.C.A._3

Mr. Dragon,

As well as I try, You're right. The biggest difference CAN be attributed to DRAFT.It is still advisable to test anyway, to put it in nice terms ...Stuff occurrs.

These were 2 Viessman Vitola 200-50 propane units. They had Riello burners attached. The barometric dampers contained in the "burner cartons" were double swing units.Having mounted and checked out both burners , prior to the firing of the units, the people doing the install didn't see the dampers sitting in another room.Not seeing them and thinking that they weren't part of the "package", they went and bought a couple of barometric dampers to put in the flues.(Field RC units....finest kind for OIL boilers!). Upon lining up the first boiler, I didn't even think about it, till I asked for the second damper from the "burner box". OOPS! The double swing unit was not what I got, and had to go back and look at the first.

Sometimes life hands you lemons. Some would say to "make lemonade". I'm over 21 now, and have taken it one step further. If life hands you lemons,CHECK the DIRECTIONS and make sure you're making "Whiskey sours". Getting a bang from your work FIRST, is better than finding out later that you weren't looking for something MORE from it.READ the instructions!!! If it wasn't important, they wouldn't be there.Most of the time it IS important, and you've taken something for granted and voided the factory recommendations,thus voiding a warranty and making yourself LIABLE for repairs.

"When all else fails, read the instructions". Words to live by in the business world. CYA my friends. Chris

Guy_5

Nozzles

Another thing that I have learned is that not all nozzles are created equally:
Even though you would think that a .75 x 80A (Delavan)and a .75 x 80H (Hago)are both the same rate, spray angle and flame shape, they are different. I don't have an explanation- only experience.
Sometimes the A works better, and sometimes the H. I have always followed the "If it ain't broke..." rule when it comes to nozzles: If a piece of equipment has operated well for a year and there are no telltale signs that there have been problems, KEEP THE SAME BRAND AND TYPE nozzle. Especially in older equipment. Some tech. may have spent hours pinpointing that particular nozzle, or might have had to return three times to get it right. If you change it, you might be in for three return trips as well. Homeowners don't care much for that. Neither does the Tech who has that third call.