oil tank done new pictures

RoosterBoy

hay guys here are the new pictures now I am not doing the job in pvc I just laid it out like this today to show you guys so you can tell me if this is ok or not I will be at the supply shop tomorrow to get all the 2" black iron pipe

take a look at the photos and tell me what you think

thanks

David Sutton_5

oil tank

Hello Roosterboy,
well i would think about moving the tank to the right and going sright up and 90 it out you will have to drill another hole , you are going to have one heck of a time tring to get those angels with the blk pipe, the time and fittings are going to be costly.

if you take the fill up 90 it out, bring your vent to the same hight do a swing joint left or right then go out next to your fill it will be a good looking job and the time and fittings will be less. just my thoughtd good luck

RoosterBoy

I cant move it over because the filter will be there and i am going to basement waterproof this year and I need the space. but I can go back and forth the plumbing shop is right next to my house down the street

but will it work with the angles I have or will it be a slow fill

vent pipe can that have a few bends in it also it's going to be to the left of the fill
thanks

Unknown

Looks like a tight fit

with that floor joist beam close to the sill plate . We would typically try to drill from the outside wall on an angle down to try to get the 1st pipe below the joist - then 45 across horizontally to the fill pipe out of the tank , keeping that pipe out of the tank as high as possible . But it doesn't look like you have the room to angle past the 1st joist . The way you're piping looks
OK , but I would try to bring the fill and vent pipes out of the tank as high as possible ( personal preference ) , and keep everything slightly pitched back down to the tank . Make sure you use a good thread sealant on all the joints - on the outside and inside threads .

Another thing to try is drill that 1st floor joist to slide the pipe though and give you some more room to make the fittings up . Try to center the hole so the intergrity isn't killed on the joist . Good luck on the pipe work Rooster .

Boston Boiler

I believe a hole can be 1/6th of the width of a joist and still maintain it's integrity. Looks like you have 2"x8"'s
so I wouldn't bore through them but using that last one like Ron Jr. suggested will probably put you in good shape.
Try to keep the vent higher than the fill.

BB

tommyoil

Check your homeowners policy for spill coverage.

If the foundation isn't below grade I would blow through the wall. You're asking for trouble up in the joists. How on earth are you going to use a wrench up there. Let me say again, dont do it or the pipe will not be the only thing getting screwed. If you do get away with it be sure to post pics. The less fittings the better.

RoosterBoy

I am going to screw it all together in this order

the pipe coming out of the tank I will put the 90 and the closed nipple and 45 together first on the ground then I will install it all on the tank as one unit

then I will put the 45 at the top of the long pipe coming down and I have enough room to screw that long pipe into the 45 that's coming from the tank

then from the outside I will screw the 14" striate pipe with a 90 all ready on it into the top of that long 45

then out of the 90 outside I will add 18" striate up the wall and add my fill cap

and then I am done

then Tuesday I will do the vent :-)

ps. can someone give me a good brand of thred sealent for this job i want the best

thanks

ed wallace

oil tank piping

paint the wall behind the tank before you place it make sure filter is not installed in the corner call an oil tech to pipe it you are in over your head if you are in Ma. do not look me up if you have problems

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RoosterBoy

why would I have a problem im going to do the vent first tomorrow. it will be on the left of the fill. it will be harder later if I install the fill first. so I am doing the vent first then the fill on the right of it it will all be tight and sealed at the male and female threads
I don't foresee any problems just a few trips for cutting and threading

but that's the hard part of it all and the most time
i also have a work bench with a vice so i can put the all the 45's and 90 on real tight with lots of thred seal

I will post pictures in a few days when it's all done.
I cant work on it all day but I got a few hours to make the trips and stuff

Unknown

> why would I have a problem im going to do the

> vent first tomorrow. it will be on the left of

> the fill. it will be harder later if I install

> the fill first. so I am doing the vent first then

> the fill on the right of it it will all be tight

> and sealed at the male and female threads I

> don't foresee any problems just a few trips for

> cutting and threading

>

> but that's the hard part

> of it all and the most time I will post pictures

> in a few days when it's all done. I cant work on

> it all day but I got a few hours to make the

> trips and stuff

Unknown

You got the time

to do it right . Whatever happens with how the finished product looks , just remember the pitch to the tank . If any oil is able to pool somewhere in the piping , it will eat away at the thread sealant . I agree that you are not in over your head , you did take the time to show us how you'll pipe it out with PVC as a guide . I would suggest using black Permatex for the threads . It's messy and hardens like a rock , but you will not have a leak . Also make sure the fill and vent are at least 12 inches above the highest point snow would accumulate . There are more rules to follow , I would suggest buying a copy of NFPA 31 , which goes into detail about proper oil tank piping . Anyone know where a copy can be bought ? Looking foward to the pics .

Constantin

Careful, it all depends...

... look up the literature from joist manufacturers. They will tell you in no uncertain terms where and how their webs can be mangled, cut, or otherwise be compromised.

For example, our TJI joists do not allow large holes within 6' of the joist ends, and only inside the web, not at the ends. From a engineering perspective, this makes perfect sense, since the web is not absorbing the bending moment. Cut beyond the web and the whole joist will be compromised.

For solid joists like the ones found here, any notch at the bottom will compromise the "thickness" of the joist WRT bending. That is, a 8" deep joist that is notched anywhere by 2" can only be considered a 6" deep joist along it's entire length.

I-beams work on the principle that something like 95% of the bending stress is located in the skin at the top and at the bottom of a I-beam. The web in between merely carries the vertical load. That's why I-beams are shaped the way they are - a great way to minimize material and maximize performance. This is also why I-beams, TJI joists, etc. should only have their webs penetrated, if anything at all.

I am a mere homeowner myself, so I cannot comment intelligently on the appropriateness of the fill and vent pipe you show. However, building in drainage seems like a great idea and I hope that the PVC mockup will prevent any heartburn that something as inflexible as black pipe can entail.

Dave T_2

I would

Rooster,
Been piping tanks for years.
First, don't worry about the fill speed, no matter how you pipe it in 2" it will not slow the flow rate noticably.
Second, I would not use 45s. I would nipple up out of the tank, 90 back, nipple, 90 right to wall, 90 up to hole at sill (put a 90 ell on this pipe first so you don't have to work the fitting in the joist bay)then pass a pipe into elbow from outside. It is by far the easiest.

Do the vent in same fashion.
Good Luck
Dave T

RoosterBoy

hi dave thats how i wanted to do it yesterday come out of the tank with a 90 then closed niple then 90 angle pipe up to the joice then add 90 close niple then 90 angled outside

will that work. i though it would be a real slow fill because of 4 90s plus 1 up the outside wall so 5 90s all in one thats why i went with 45's so it will run faster but it's harder to pipe :-)

Dave T_2

rooster

do it with 90s, you will find 45s harder to work with and for an oil tank fill and vent unnecessary. Here in MA we would do it with 1 1/4" piping. I hope you plan to have a gauge and also a whistle, you need both. Be sure to add the swing joint at your first 90. Avoid close nipples (try to stay with nipples you can get a wrench on without biting thread). Dave T

Dave Bush

> hay guys here are the new pictures now I am not

> doing the job in pvc I just laid it out like this

> today to show you guys so you can tell me if this

> is ok or not I will be at the supply shop

> tomorrow to get all the 2" black iron

> pipe

>

> take a look at the photos and tell me

> what you think

>

> thanks

ed_19

Joist penetrations

BOCA guidelines for joist penetrations
The Max Bore Size is a 1/3 of the joist depth, 2" minimum from the top and bottom. So the max hole for an 8" joist would be 2.67". This is a good rule of thumb to know for the heat guys and the plumbers

Boston Boiler

2"x8"'s are only 7 1/8" so a 2.67" would be too much. I'm in MA and 1/6 is what we have and in all reality I wouldn't
exceed that if it was more. Why build something solid only to weaken it with holes if you don't have to Right?

BB

Unknown

What's the rule say

if you double up the joist ? Sometimes there's no other choice but to drill er out .

Boston Boiler

Don't know what doubles are. I wouldn't feel too bad about sqeaking out a little more than 1/6 on a double.

Cock-a-doodle-doo there Roosterboy! Waiting on those finished pictures!

BB

Unknown

Still waiting too

You think he just said the hell with it , and ran the PVC ?

RoosterBoy

no I got it all done I will have pictures for you all tomorrow evening I was waiting on the supply house to get me the gauge and vent I did not want combo so I will have both tomorrow I am running the vent same way.

side by side it will be a nice job you will all see :-).

my HVAC contractor when he puts in my buderus with lt 160 D.H.W tank and r2109 will be amazed with me on how nice a job I did with my oil tank.

im 26 and I wish I could get a job in the HVAC field :-)I read allot of your post and I wish I can take your trade do you think 26 is to late for me?

THANKS GUYS keep an eye out tomorrow for my nice pipe job i did with my oil tank im verry happy with it. and thank you all for helping me with great advice