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Brazed Plate exchanger......

Kent_3
Kent_3 Member Posts: 60
Of course you can.

Comments

  • PeteH
    PeteH Member Posts: 5


    Can I use it to heat my free-standing workshop? I think it wise to use anti-freeze in this loop and keep it seperate from the house loop.

    Is it a good idea? It's cheaper than the indirect water heater, but will it work?

    Kindest Regards,
    PeteH
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Yes, yes, & yes

    you can use one, wise to glycol and great idea.

    Now, depending on the size, BTU wise, sometimes a small indirect tank, maybe a 20 gallon, comes out cheaper than a FP hx. Nicely insulated, thermostat well, taps to use for temperature gauge, etc.

    I use the Phase 3 tank in tank type, boiler water in the large inner tank, for a good buffer volume, and glycol in the smaller outer tank. Less glycol volume this way.

    An indirect used this way will give great performance, better than use as a DHW tank as you now have two pumped flows for best heat transfer.

    I know a dealer dying to get rid of some 20 gallon indirects that were less than sucessful for DHW indirects :)

    hot rod

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  • PeteH
    PeteH Member Posts: 5


    Woo Hoo! Thanks for the info guys, here are some specifics: a heatload calc (from Slantfin) indicates I need 15,000 BTU. I have two 250ft loops of 1/2" pex in the slab with a 56ft run from the shop to the boiler in the house in 3/4" pex.

    I have not a clue how to size this setup?

    I do like the idea of a small 20gal IDWH mainly because of the ease of setting temp, in this situation I think the smaller the better? The only reason I turned away from the IDWH is the $1000.00ish price tag my local HVAC guy want for the Mega-Stor! How do I get in touch with your man?

    Kindest Regards,
    PeteH
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Call Terry

    at 641-472-4786 They have some Trianco/Laars Durflow 20. New in the boxes but a few years old.

    hot rod

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  • PeteH
    PeteH Member Posts: 5
    Thank-You Hotrod

  • PeteH
    PeteH Member Posts: 5
    OK, got the tank

    what size pipe do I need to run rom the boiler? Instructions state 1-1/4". Would 3/4" be sufficent for my application?
  • Dave_4
    Dave_4 Member Posts: 1,404
    I'm back.......

    Before I got a chance to hook this system up I got in a bad car wreck. I am know attempting to finish this install and don't remember how I was going to hook it up :-(

    I have the Duralflow 20 gal, the internal coil is 3/4" and marked "hot/cold". The tank in/out is 1-1/4" and is marked boiler feed/return.

    Should I connect the boiler to the 3/4" coil and fill the tank with antifreeze?
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Sorry about your wreck

    I hope you are getting back to work. And play.

    I would connect the tank to the boiler. Depending on the boiler output 1 or 1-1/4 pipe would work. You can easily move 80K maybe a tad more with 1" pipe.

    Although your load is only 15K on the garage it may be good to use the tank as a buffer for the boiler and you need to be able to move the boilers required gpm through the tank.

    If you are going to use the tank off a primary loop just for the garage HX you could pipe it with 3/4" and easily move the 15 K.

    Then use the coil as the radiant heat source. Lot less glycol needed this way.

    Remember the glycol loop will need an air scoop, expansion tank and pressure relief protection just as the boiler side does. A LWC may be wise if you want to protect the glycol circ from a low fluid condition. Treat the "B" side as a separate system from that respect.

    hot rod

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  • Dave_4
    Dave_4 Member Posts: 1,404
    All fixed.......

    Thank-You Hot Rod! Thankfully it wasn't anything that a handful of screws and a 8" plate couldn't fix.....

    Great, I like the smaller quantity of anti-freeze! So, for the garage (coil) loop I need: expansion tank, air scoop, check valve, strainer and a gold top? Do I need a T&P?

    For the boiler (tank) loop: an aquastat to control the zone valve, T&P valve. Not sure how to fit both of these as all I have is the 1-1/4" inlet which is a 90 degree fitting with a tap where the aquastat is to connect. There is a gold top valve in the tank.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    No to the T&P

    just a P, that is 30 lb pressure relief. Really no need for a check valve on a one zone system either.

    That tank should have an aquastat and well already installed. It also has an air vent, but it is on the tank side.

    They didn't have a lot of coil inside these, and tended to under perform for DHW production. I would think it should work fine as a HX with that type of delta t. 180 or so on the tank and a three way thermostatic to mix down to the radiant temperature.

    hot rod

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  • Peter Harjung
    Peter Harjung Member Posts: 2
    Good deal,

    > just a P, that is 30 lb pressure relief. Really

    > no need for a check valve on a one zone system

    > either.

    >

    > That tank should have an aquastat and

    > well already installed. It also has an air vent,

    > but it is on the tank side.

    >

    > They didn't have a

    > lot of coil inside these, and tended to under

    > perform for DHW production. I would think it

    > should work fine as a HX with that type of delta

    > t. 180 or so on the tank and a three way

    > thermostatic to mix down to the radiant

    > temperature.

    >

    > hot rod

    >

    > _A

    > HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

    > 144&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

    > Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

    > "Find A Professional"_/A_



  • Peter Harjung
    Peter Harjung Member Posts: 2
    Good deal,

    Thanks Hot Rod.

    How did you get in my basement to take that pic? ;-)

    Happy Holidays,
    Kindest Regards,
    PeteH
This discussion has been closed.