ThermoFin Master of Sparks

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involved loosing all the nail points to install the ThermoFin transfer plates.

Sheetrock type screws break off easily, its the barely visable nail points that are a headache. Hard to spot in a wafer type subfloor like this.

A small angle grinder and a air die grinder were the tools we used. Still a crummy, smelly thankless job!

Transfer plates are important as they allowed me to use a very low supply temperature to "drive" the system.

I used a Butler Solar Wand HX, slightly modified, to pull the btus from an exisiting water heater for this 12X 15 master bath retro to the lackluster FA system.

hot rod

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Constantin

Nice action shots!

...looks like you were operating inside a garage space below the bathroom. Presumably, you're going to insulate the heck out of those joist bays? I have yet to see a garage door that does a decent job of sealing out the great outdoors.

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Basement

walkout below the master bath is a heated space. They have a mini garage door to bring in their mowers and lawn furniture.

I installed R-foil right below the plates to seal the bays nicely, then R-19 fiberglass batts.

hot rod

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Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

Thermofin

What do you use to secure your plates to the floor?

We used to use the Grabber Super Drive with collated screws and then when I placed my last order for plates with Radiant Engineering, Brian turned me on to the Senco SKS staple gun with 5/8" long, 16 gauge staples.

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Hi Alan

generally I use a coil roofing nailer. In this case with a finished tile floor above I didn't want to bang it, so I used 3/4" long hex drive screws with a cordless. A total of 250 running feet of fin was attached.

I tried a QuikDrive self feed screw gun once. Seemed to plug up with the aluminum shavings when working overhead with un drilled plates. The drill point screws did go thru the plates nicely until the jam, however

hot rod

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