oil tank treatments

RoosterBoy

hi I have a indoor oil tank I would like to get some treatment to remove water or sludge from my tank and treat the oil. is there a product you recommend I use before every fillup

thanks

Firedragon_4

Everybody has a favorite,

but there is NO do all, fix all, FACT!

Here are my favorites based on need and problem:
http://www.lincolnlaboratory.com/

BillW@honeywell

No chemical treatment...

will remove everything. If you suspect you have a water problem, have your oil company "stick" the tank. They'll coat the bottom of a probe with water paste, which turns color when it contacts water,and it will give you a rough indication of how much water is in the tank. The water and the sludge can be pumped out, and then a chemical treatment program can begin.

The sludge is really a living thing, a bacteria that grows and absorbs nutrients fron the oil and and oxygen from the water, and lives right at the interface between the two. The waste products make the water acidic, and it will attack the metal of the tank. All fuel oil is contaminated with water, but only in trace amounts. A biocide, to control the bacteria, and a emusiflying fuel conditioner is all you really need after a tank cleaning. If you have a really bad problem, the oil filter will plug repeatedly and will have a grey or brown slimy coating on it, with "chocolate pudding" residue also in the bottom of the filter housing.

Find out where the water is coming from...are your fill and vent pipes capped? Keeping the tank full will also minimize condensation. If the tank is very old consider replacing it with one of the new "Roth" tanks, the cost of which is minor in comparison to the cost of an oil spill clean up,and EPA/DEP fines.

RoosterBoy

it is a brand new Granby tank never had oil in it yet my boiler is going to be installed in 2 weeks my contractor is installing a new heating system in my house so the tank is new I wanted something that can prevent problems

thanks

Boston Boiler

Check with your local oil company. Some offer a yearly treatment that comes with a warrantee for protection on
the tank being treated. I don't know if it really works but the warrantee is there if it don't. Some people feel better
with warrantees in place.

BB

J.C.A._3

Just my thoughts.

Buy your oil from a great dealer. If they're truly great, the oil gets treated at the terminal, when filling the truck.Biocide, acid neutralizer and lubricity improver come with the best additives. Some of the better ones also have cetane boosters making it as good as diesel fuel.

Make sure that the tank is installed according to NFPA31 code. Proper pitch will put all the water where it belongs....in the filter. I, personally like to use Garber filters. The larger ones are the better ones! If room permits, put one on the tank and another at the side of the boiler.The optional gauge mounted on both will really let you know if one or the other needs replacement.

When I first started, we used to call bottom feed tanks "New York tanks".(we also automatically followed the drivers around when the difficult ones were going to be filled. May as well change the filter and draw off the budge then, rather than wait till it's dinner time/sleeptime to get the call....Any memories there Firedragon?) After the overall change to bottomfeed tanks, I can say that if proper filtration is used, they WILL outlast the best of the older Ma. tanks.

I've been accused of pitching my tank installs AND piping just a bit too much. I bet the tanks that I install will last longer than me! Chris

kevin coppinger_4

I guess I....

am not the only one who "over pitches" ...we have to use floor flanges here in NH...I use a set of 1 1/4"x12 nipples in one end and a set of 11" in the other....looks a bit odd but no complaints yet...kpc
PS. - I like the fuel rite conditioner as a regular treatment...

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

lchmb

alway's thought

that us folk's in NH were a little further off than normal..:) J/K...

J.C.A._3

Kevin,

Pisser! I usually give 12"in the back and 10" in the front .
It gives me the room I need to mount a large Garber filter, and most times, enough room to get a "bucket" underneath it, while switching it out and not making a mess.

2" over 5' seems to be more than enough, but ain't that the point? Crap flowing in the right direction and going to the place it belongs, makes a whole lot of sense.

Time posting sensitive....The Sox WIN!!!!!