Circ pump motor problem

Sean_6

Greetings. I've been fighting this problem for the last 2 years. The circulator motor has been removed tested. It works fine. The problem is it won't start running on it's own. I actually have to 'pull-start' the thing, then it runs like it is supposed to. Is there a selenoid or starter or something that is supposed to kick this thing over? Might there be a fried relay? It's an electric motor on a hot water radiator heating system. We are debating getting a whole new furnace, but I insist that it isn't necessary and it's probably a simple fix.... Any suggestions are appreciated, and if you need more detailed information, I'll be sure to provide it. THE WALL is my last hope.

will smith_2

Sean-replacing the entire boiler due to a bad pump is sort of like remodeling your bathroom because you ran out of shampoo; it's not that you can't, but it chaper to buy more shampoo. To the point though, you could have a bad capacitor, the motor bearings or bearing assembly could be close to seizing up, or the pump relay could be bad. In either case, pump assemblies and relays won't set you back that much-good luck!

Ken_8

Sean,

Assuming your furnace is in fact not a furnace, but rather a hot water boiler, we must also assume that if you can "kick start" the motor that the coupler is exposed? The so-called "water lubricated sealed units" have no exposed parts that can be spun by hand to start them.

Since the B&G Series 100 was perhaps the most common circulater on the planet at one time we can assume you are fiddling with the coupler to get it started? If so, it costs almost as much for the entire circulater as the motor pak itself! The capaciter may be shot - which will result in what you're experiencing occassionally. Lubrication with non-detergent 20 weight oil may free one of the three bearings too (if it is the problem), but if it's a single zone system, a $50 TACO 007 or similar water lubed pump might be an excellent replacement plan.

The more information you provide, the better we can help.

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Dale

Brand of circ

The old grundfos circs had a habit of seizing up every summer. To start them you slam on the side of them with your fist, or remove the end cap and turn by hand. If you have a little water lubricated circ make sure it's facing the correct direction, usually not the motor pointing down. Some of the little ones have a start capacacitor that could be bad. If, you have a B&G 100 series and you start it by manually turning the coupler the rubber mounts on the motor could be making the motor out of allignment and could need changing. Or the oil for the pump portion could be dry or never filled on install. Or a bad start cap. Give us some more info and a picture if possible and better suggestions may result.

Live/Learn

circ. motor

Try checking out the centrifical switch that controls the start windings. They sometimes get dirty/worn and need service. They are located in either the front or rear end assembly , depending on the make of motor. I,ve had this problem in the past with motor not responding now and then.
Live/Learn

Ken D.

Circulator

I agree with Live/Learn. The start switch is most likely the problem if the circ is a B&G #100 or Taco 110 (Red Baron). You are better off getting a new or rebuilt motor at that point instead of trying to service cetrifugal switch in the field. If it is a water lubed circ (Taco 007, B&G Little Red, Grundfos, Sundstrand, etc.) you should only have to "kick start" once a season. Any more than that, replace either the capacitor or whole pump. Turning on the circulator for a minute or two a few times in the off season will prevent you from having to kick it at beginning of heating season.