stuck expansion tank

Eric_15

My expansion tank broke off due to the weight of the water that collected inside. Now I was stuck with the other end still screw. I tried practically eveything I know to get it out so that i can put a new one in. I really didn't want to call a pro because I assumed it was a simple screw on screw off procedure but I cannot get the other end out. Please help winter is on the way!!!

m dewolfe

Quick fix..go out and buy a set of easy-outs these look like a screw with backwards threads. Find the one that fits and thread it in as the stud tightens the broken off nipple will back right out. I think that any good hardware store should have them..

hr

Often times

you can collapse that nipple with a real sharp small chisel.

How old is the tank? Might want to find out why it rusted off at the nipple if it is 10 years old or less.

hot rod

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tim smith

expansion tank breaking off??

My guess is when the diaphragm went bad in tank, the line that tank was tied to was not properly supported and there fore broke off, make sure you support the line properly or it will do it again.

steve gates

support the line and tank is what you mean. Ive seen full tanks pull soldered joints and with the feed valve on, what a mess.

Kal Row

buy an inside wrench...

they come in multiple sizes, also if it broke off, then is probably so rusted that the piece can be extracted by getting a screwdriver behind the threads and then grabbing the bent part with a long nose vise-grip, or you can take a hacksaw blade to the inside - to thin it out - to peel it out, use a ton of Teflon on the new one, and support it (they do make wall brackets for it)

please, please, please, you a ball valve and a union after it, and then the tank, so that you can remove it once a year to check the pressure, the manufacture clearly states that they loose air right through the diaphragm - and need to be checked - and they cant be set in the system -

you need one pound of static pressure for every 2.33ft of water height in your system –
plus 5pounds for the circulator’s avg pressure differential , most come pre-charged to 12pounds – because the avg system is 18ft in height, from the bottom of the boiler to the baseboard on the second floor – so 18/2.33=7.75 +5 for the circulator = 12.7, however you might have a vent line going to the attic – so check and measure from the bottom to the top

pressurize the tank to that with a bike pump, then install it, and with the system cold and off - set you system's pressure regulator to the same – it will get higher when hot – and still higher if you happen to have you expansion tank before the circulator in the loop (the way it’s supposed to be – known to us wet-heads as “pumping-away”)

the pressure regulator is the thingy with the lever on it, then lever part unscrews and the slotted stem adjusts after you loosen the nut - loosen the nut and turn the slotted stem to adjust - reading the pressure on the boiler gauge, tap the gauge to make sure it's not sticking

link to watts regulator’s repair page – will give you an idea of how to
http://www.wattsreg.com/pdf/IS-1156F.pdf

Weezbo

stuff a rag in the opening into the pipe...and \"Tapp\"

the fitting out .the tap will eventually find the original threads...a screwdriver will get the last piece out ...have a great day:)

Eric_15

Thank you it finally came off.