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radiant piping

Matt_21 Member Posts: 140
has anyone installed the joist clips you screw into the floor above and the radiant tubing hangs an inch or two into the joist space. i have a job i am working on and the owner decided to install radiant. i was going to go with the wirsbo quik trak panels but the house is already framed and the framer hadn't taken into account the height required for the radiant for his doors & stairs. i was going to use the staple up panels from below but the entire first floor is hardwood and i'm worried about punctures to the tubing. i had seen these joist clips in the wirsbo catalog but i'm not sure how effective the heat transfer is. any help would be appreciated.


  • Just say no

    to suspended tube installation in a new house. Makes no sense to me at all. Use the plates and run your radiant at much lower temperatures than suspended would allow. The energy savings are in low Temp. radiant design. Dales plates are the best I've used and the flooring guy need only use nails that don't go all the way through for his wood floors. I use a palm nailer for the plates. it works great.

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  • Ray_7
    Ray_7 Member Posts: 16

    I have radiant installed in my house with the clips. I used 1" sheet metal screws to attach to bottom of the floor. You have to insulate 1" below the tubing to keep the heat in. I installed Kitec tubing. Has been in for 4 years and working great.

  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,658
    \"Do The Math\"

    Make sure you check the loads with an unplated joist-bay system. Many systems installed simply cannmot meet design temps. The Mfg. software tells all...including how hot the water in the tubes must be to heat the home. I'd put in wall panel radiators for greater efficiency, than an unplated staple-up, but that's just my opinion.

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  • Jed_2
    Jed_2 Member Posts: 781
    Yeah, do the math

    Nothing wrong with installing suspended or plate systems with hardwood flooring! If the numbers show supplemental, add panel rads to the load required, sized for the derating factor, add drops to the manifold, with an actuator head, and VOILA! Simple two stage zone, and, gee, you get the best of both worlds. It ain't that complicated.

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