Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

circs and manafolds

Bob_36 Member Posts: 83
I have a couple of questions. I'm running home runs to my ci rads. What manifold do you reccomend? I am considering the Wirsbo brass that looks pipe shaped. Do you think this is necessary or can I just use 1" by 1" by 1/2" copper tees and attach valves on the returns side for balancing? On any manifold that I end up with, should I have the pex enter from the under side of the manifold to made air elimination easier to control? My last Question concerns circs. I'm going to use Taco 007 for each of my two zones. I've heard there are different types (variable speed, and flow check included). Should I include any of these options in the circs or just use the standard 007? Last question is flanges. On a recent thread, I saw what looked like Taco flanges that had shut off valves incorporated right in the flange. If so what what are they called. Thanks for any help as usual in the past.


  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    I think

    the factory built manifolds look and work great. Hard to homebuild with tees if you have more than 4 or so ports, and have it look good. Consider the small Dahl ball valves for shut down or minor balance.

    More eloborate manifolds have flow setters and more accurate flow setting valves for fine adjusting. Also with zone valve head options.

    For high end I like the Oventrop stainless manifolds. Nice!

    Use the circ that best matches the requirements of the zones. Some brands offer 3 speed pumps for more "dial in" flexability. determine the gpm and head and go to a pump curve chart to select. No sence in over sizing a pump then throttling back. Plenty of pump selections these days.

    If you are looking for a flange with a valve and "sweat" connection Webstone, or the new B&Gs are real good options. I don't believe Taco has a sweat version iso flange, but they do have sweat flanges that you could add you own ball valve to.

    I like a nice full port ball valve with a stem packing to allow movement without stem leaks. Stem leaks can be a problem on cheap iso-flange sets :) Nothing worse than a clean, quick pump changeout then the flange stop leaks!

    hot rod

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • EJW
    EJW Member Posts: 321

    Alberta make very nice copper manifolds. Several run and branch size options.
  • Bob_36
    Bob_36 Member Posts: 83

    Thanks for the input to my questions. I looked up the Alberta copper manifolds and they look like they would do the trick. I saw that the ends of the manifold was bullet shaped and not open. Don't you think there is a need for an air release at the end of the manifold. That brings me to a question on my first post. Should I invert the manifold so the pex leaves from the bottom for better air elimination or am I worrying too much. I plan to install air vents at the top of each rad. Thanks
This discussion has been closed.