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Air bound system

Weezbo
Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
zone first.this is a way to eliminate air and prove flow.the spirovent will take out any entrained air ofer time and basically eliminate the need for Air Bleeders.

Comments

  • Rookie_3
    Rookie_3 Member Posts: 244
    Air bound system

    I was replacing a 4' section of baseboard in a house with a
    old FHW system with a tankless and one zone (circ) for the 1st and 2nd floor. The first floor was half convetors and half baseboard, The upstairs was all baseboard. When I was
    done replacing the leaking 4' section and started to refill
    and bleed the system it became air bound and only half the first floor would heat. I found bleeders on all of the convectors on the 1st floor and in 2 of the baseboards on the 2nd floor. I don't know how I bled them all with the shape the bleeders were in but they all did the job luckily.
    My question is what if some, or worse, none of the bleeders were there? Just shy of sneaking out the basement bulkhead
    what could I have done? Is there such a thing as self tapping bleeders that I could have drilled in? Any thoughts would be appreciated so I can prepare for next time.
    Thanks............ROOKIE
  • Rookie_3
    Rookie_3 Member Posts: 244


    what is a wyane pum?
  • EJW
    EJW Member Posts: 321
    Wayne Pump

  • A self tapping valve

    will do the trick . We used the icemaker saddle valve a few times on pressurized systems .

    Or you could just repipe every troubling airbound job to pump away from the expansion tank . With a good air eliminator at the boiler , it'll bring back all the air and be rid of it . I've seen it work firsthand on a new boiler with no means to purge at the boiler , or in the system .
  • Rookie_3
    Rookie_3 Member Posts: 244


    Icemaker will become a part of my inventory, Thanks!!
    as far as piping away this paticular system it is out of the 50's and I cringed at every turn of a valve. The home owner is an older gentleman with some mechanical knowledge but his strong belief is that if he replaces the boiler the rest of the system piping will not hold up to a new boiler.
    I tried to explain that the same psi would be going through
    but he is comparing it to the bottom end of a high milage car engine not holding up to a valve job. Since I was there
    replacing a section of leaking baseboard there was nothing else for him to hear so the "senior system" keeps chugging along on borrowed time for another winter. Thanks again gentlemen for your thoughts on this problem.....ROOKIE
  • Paul_28
    Paul_28 Member Posts: 113
    Wayne Pump???

  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    After purging the zones with a wyane Pump .....

    if you have no micro bubbler then i agree that the saddle valve is a quick fix... the Fancy name for a bucket and a wayne pump and another little giant in a bucket with three washing machine hoses is "Purge Cart":)
  • EJW
    EJW Member Posts: 321
    You haven't heard of a wayne pump?

  • Mellow_2
    Mellow_2 Member Posts: 204
    Try

    tell the cust. that it is like rebuilding a car frame up. The pipes are like the body of the car and it is in great shape for its age. This system has been inside its whole life. YOU can make it like new again, make it shine like the day it was installed. It could be like a car at a car show better than new. The new parts today are better for the old parts that are left. They make less air and move more water. The heat will not run as much as before this means that it will not break as much. Less air is better and makes it last. Then tell him that you can't compare to comfort and not having to work on the heat every day in the winter. Most will not do a change they are set in their ways.......but I would worry more with the old system than with a new boiler on an old system. The cust. wants us to advice them and they will take our advice if it is good advice.....good luck
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