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single use gas shutoff valve

Rick T
Rick T Member Posts: 16
We got flooded up here in north central PA.
Lots of water in basements. I had put in a gas water heater from Lowes - Whirlpool FG1F404053. It has the new flammable vapor retarder system. Well, the flood put 6" in the basement and knocked out the pilot - unit went off on safety due to cold thermocouple.

In repairing it I dried it all out so the pitzo sparker would spark at the right place again - it had been sparking to a wet spot not at the pilot flame.
Anyway - the pilot lit but wouldn't continue after heating the thermocouple for a couple of minutes. I then read the little note on the side of the Robertshaw Unitrol R110R gas control valve that said "single use gas shutoff vavle" after the unit goes off the control must be replaced.

Does this mean the whole gas control valve needs replacing?? Can't seem to find help on the manufacturer's or other websites.

Rick

Comments

  • BillW@honeywell
    BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
    ANY IGNITION CONTROL...

    that has been exposed to water must be replaced! Regardless of who makes it, what it's installed on or in, DO NOT attempt to re-light it! You are risking a fire or explosion and serious injury or death by trying to relight a flood-damaged control. Please get it replaced by an experienced pro, don't risk your family's life!
  • Rick T
    Rick T Member Posts: 16
    water level

    thanks for your concern. I agree.
    This control was not under water. The water just extinguished the pilot.

    I still need help about what the "single use gas control valve" is about.



  • Dave_38
    Dave_38 Member Posts: 8
    Single use valve

    The "single use" part of the label that you are refering to is probably talking about the ECO, or energy cut off safety aspect of the valve. This is a one shot safety system that only reacts to overheating. If the water in the tank exceeds something in the 180 to 200 degree area, the valve shuts down and cannot be reset.
  • Glenn Harrison_2
    Glenn Harrison_2 Member Posts: 845
    You need to test the thermocouple...

    to see if it's genreating the milivolt signal. Depending on who makes the Whirlpool water heater, there is probably a limit switch built into the thermocouple, which has gone bad due to getting wet. There may also be a fire retardent disc in the bottom of the unit that could be damaged or plugged due to the flooding.

    If I were you I would be calling the Whirlpool factory hotline and finding out there stance on flooding of the burner compartment. You will probably find that they require the water heater be replaced due to the Flame Vapor retarding safty features.

    Or you could just save yourself the trouble, go get a new water heater, put it up on bricks if you have the room, and write it of as bad luck. At least this way you know your family is safe,and you have an undamaged fuel burning appliance in the basement.
  • Rick T
    Rick T Member Posts: 16
    replaced it

    After obtaining a new left-hand thread thermocouple with an in-line thermal fuse, the pilot still wouldn't stay lit after heating the t'couple.

    So - the 10 month old Whirlpool water heater is removed, and a new Bradford White unit is in. Unfortunately, it is at the same height as the old one (one brick off the floor) due to venting height restrictions.

    Thanks for the input from you all.
    Learning about the ECO was helpful as well as learning about the new thermocouples.

    Rick
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