control joints in a slab

ROJOHO

We are about to pour a 4" slab with radiant tubing. Are there any alternatives other than saw cutting, such as metal inserts? My cement contractor is nervous about saw cutting. Any product websites about control joint/expansion joint materials would be appreciated.

John Felciano

Sure

there are expansion joints and what my guy calls white caps.It's shaped like the letter T and extends down a few inches into the cement.The top of the T hides the crack.They are usually used on cement patios around pools and sidewalks.

johnnyd

maybe it's too late

But you could avoid the problem by stapling the tubing to the under-slab foam, lay your re-bar on top, and then there's no way the cur will get down to the tubing.

ROJOHO

it's not too late, but

I'll be using insul-tarp, so I can't staple down. Has anyone laid down tubing with rebar on top?

kevin coppinger_4

I was told..

you could staple down to insultarp....you just had to put a vapor barrier underneath...kpc

Mark Eatherton1

If...

you're tying to 6 x 6 WWM, it generally ends up on the bottom of the pour due to the fact that the size 14 boots filled with non gurly concrete finisher feet push it there.

I've only had the concrete cutters hit tubing once, and that was on a structural pour (tube was held shallow by #5 rebar sat on chairs)

THe alternative to cutting is called control joints.

There used to be 2 things the concrete guys would guarantee concrete to do. 1 was lay there, and 2 was CRACK.

After the passing of himmicane Ivan, number one is now in doubt, but number 2, although unproven through any empirical data, remains a given...:-)

If all your concrete cutter is doing is a 1/2" deep score, the chances of him hitting it are slim to none, and Slim just got on a train headed out of town...

ME

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Gordy_2

1/3 of the depth of your concrete pour is what is needed to guarantee a good control joint. At least that is IDOT specs. Another sayin "If you don't want concrete to crack leave it in the truck."