Help: Oil hot air or Forced H20/Hydro Unit ?

John Bratschi

I am a homeowner and need a new Oil heating system in my house, and am trying to understand the pros/cons of going with Oil/Hot air system - or a forced water/Hydro air unit. The contractor I am using is pushing for the hydro unit, but I have no exerience with it. We do not have gas in our town.

Any thougths on forced water & hydro air units?

David_5

Describe the house

So we can give you better advice. How many zones? Do you already have ductwork? What do you do for domestic hot water, and do you want to incorporate it into the heating system? About how big is your home? How many floors?

David

BillW@honeywell

What do you have now?

If you already have the ductwork, and it's sized properly and in good condition and clean, either will work. Are you installing cooling as well? A hydroair unit includes a boiler that heats the water, and a pump system that forces the water through a coil in your air handler, where a fan delivers the warmed air to your home. A seperate cooling coil provides cooling, if installed. You can use an indirect water heater for dometic hot water, as well as have heated towel racks and other nice hydronic accessories, plus the benefits of electronic air cleaners or advanced filtration, UV germ inhibitor lights, zoning and other IAQ accessories. Steam humidifiers work best with hydroair.

If you choose to go with oil-fired forced air, the oil flame heats a heat exchanger, and a fan blows air thru it, into the ductwork, and out to your home. A seperate cooling coil & system is needed for AC. A flow-thru/bypass or fan forced humidifier can be added, along with air cleaning & other IAQ accessories. You will need a seperate, oil fired water heater for domestic hot water.

Make sure your contractor does heat loss calculations, and remember that you home is a system, and the components of that system all depend on the others. Good windows, proper insulation, good design all are factors.

Remember also that energy costs are your third largest home expense after mortgage and taxes, and that you will be living with the heating/cooling system for the next 20 years or more. It's a very important choice.

J.C.A._3

What Bill was trying to say ...

You'll have a whole pile of options if you go with the hydro-air. If you just stay with an oil fired furnace you'll have alot more to deal with when it comes to repairs. (seperate appliances = more appliances, with the hydro-air and an indirect there's only 1 burner to service and FAR more options in your home. Initial costs will be higher but....)

Radiant floors, towels warmers, panel radiators in "hard to heat spots" become reality. Huge temp. swings and stale recirculated air CAN be eliminated. Your choice, but I see a good proposal from your contractor. Chris

lchmb

One other thought

ONe other thing to keep in mind what you have had in the past. I have seen alot of people who have had either hot air or hot water and are never comfortable switching.

John Bratschi

My current system

Many thanks for your input- IT IS VERY HELPFUL!!!

I was asked for more details on my current system:
1 zone for 2 floors - for 4000 sq ft. should I go with 2 zones? I currently have a geothermal system - that no longer works - as my well water level has dropped too much (very long story) I currently have propane hot water - but I don't think I want to go all propane - I think it's more expensive. I am open to tying the water to the heating system, but don't know pros/cons.

John Bratschi

one lst detail

I am also installing AC in this system.

DaveGateway

Geo config question

Curious: How was the geo system heating the house? Radiant or a hydro coil? Maybe all of this piping is still there to hook up to an oil fired boiler? But as said, getting rid of the propane HWH is a big advantage, simplifing down to one fuel/burner/flue. Another big zoning advantage might be getting to install 2 air handlers with seperate hydro coils: basement and attic. This will give you better air flow and zoning control. Of course 2 split AC systems will be needed to feed each air handler. Pricey but extra comfort and control.

BillW@honeywell

Zoning

You can zone forced air systems of any kind with a Zoning System. You break the house up into zones, and install zone damper to handle each. Each zone gets it's own thermostat, and a control panel ties it all together. Check out our Networked Zoning System, available in 2 or 3 zone kits; part number is Y8835A 1002 (2 zone) or Y8835A 1010 (3 zone). You can find it on our website... www.honeywell.customer/yourhome, just type in those numbers. Includes communicating digital setback stats, control panel, transformer, temp sensors and accessories. Round, square or rectangular motorized dampers are ordered seperately. Professionally installed only, distribution is restricted to PerfectClimate or Enviracaire Elite dealers and distributors.