Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

New to Buderus and have a few questions

big for us anyway . A Buderus G215 4 section , on top of the Buderus LT160 - 40 gal. indirect . 4 zones of baseboard heat will replace electric rads , and the 5th zone is the indirect . We had a 7 inch prefab chimney installed outside the home . There is also a solar tank for hot water , preheating a propane fired heater .

To start off , I don't know the exact weight , but getting the boiler on top of the indirect was not fun . There were 5 of us , and we almost didn't make it . Didn't there used to be handholds built into the jacket to maneuver the boiler up ? Or maybe a machine to rent to lift it up ? On a positive note , the adjustable legs on the indirect are an excellent idea .

Also , is it a good idea to pipe in a boiler bypass ? I know the boiler is rated for low return temps , just not sure how low . But I'm guessing it won't be too low with baseboard loops .

We will be removing the LP heater , but the solar tank is staying . The homeowner is having a new collector and lines installed as we work . What do you think is the best way to pipe the solar tank's domestic water to the new indirect ? Should we consider a recirc line with bronze pump from solar tank to indirect ? How would you control the pump ?

We used an optional 1 inch tapping on the boiler supply for the boiler relief valve . The specs say to install it on the supply piping to the zones . Will this be a problem ?

And last - can this model Buderus be used as a direct vent boiler ? With the cost of the prefab chimney , I wonder if direct vent would have been a better choice .

Once again , thanks for any help in advance . Ron .

Comments

  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,103
    couple of hints

    Hey ron i've installed only 4 215 4 sections to date i feel you don't need a by pass but i would use a triple aqua stat and a taco sr zone pump relay with your indirect as priority and the zr-zc terminals wired from the 3 aquastat to the taco hooked up .This way with the boiler warm you will never lag in domestics hot water needs and as for direct vent i believe the btu 's are to large for a tjerlund ss1 kit and i ,m pretty sure they are not suited for direct vent but on the flip side i've had to raise the stack temp on every 215 i've put in,the stack from factory set up was about 300 to 340 pretty low ,and on the safety valve you should be fine .Ron you have to love that 2 bolt front door and the 6 flue on it .Did you guys have the jacket on when you put it on the tank .Looked at a job stacking it first thing i figured in was a small 520 or genie lift i know that boiler ain't on the light side popped my back on that size unit last winter . good luck hope to see some awesome shots peace clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • Todd_9
    Todd_9 Member Posts: 88
    buderus

    I didn't think that the 215 series was made to be stacked on the LT tank. I'm sure that was a fun job lifting it. We've done a couple 115 series stacked and two of us can pick the boiler up, and yes that series has handles.
    I believe that the 115 series is the only one that can be direct vented, I wish someone would say otherwise because we have one coming up with no chimney and it also will be a 215. Make sure your draft gauge is working cause these love positive overfire pressure. You may be able to get away with no draft reg. if you can control the draft good enough with the baffles.You may want to try this if the roar is too loud. One other suggestion, with the parallel threads on the indirect, if possible use unions on the connectors they can be tricky to make up.
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,103
    solar

    Ron you'll need a priority relay 1 st to drop the idw from coming on while the solar is suppling and i would gather at least 1 bronze pump with a aquastat to the storage tank and maybe a shuttle pump to pump solar heated water to your buderus tank and i would gather some chk valves between your idwh and the solar tank to pervent migration when the splar system is not suppling anything ex.nite you could wire your solar pump to operate off a timer to maxiumize it's effeciency you could raise your storage tank temp and have a good mixing valve on your domestic outlet and a good domestics expansion tank a must peace clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • lchmb
    lchmb Member Posts: 2,997
    nice boiler

    They are a nice system Ron. A bypass should not be needed with the 215 as it allow's for "Thermal Shock Proof Boiler Design at any Return Water Temperature." As to the solar system, just wondering if there is any type of control that could be activated by sunlight?.....never gave that thought. But would think using an aquastat would be self defeating if it came on at night....Maybe a timer, or a temp sensor placed on the solar panel itself? As to direct vent, again never ran into that but do not believe you could, pretty big boiler....Will be waiting on the pics!!
  • kevin coppinger_4
    kevin coppinger_4 Member Posts: 2,124
    clammy...

    if you do the triple aqua(8124) what would you put the settings (hi/lo) on?...KPC

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • I knew there were handles

    The last one I did was back in 97 or 98 , and I distinctly remember handles and lifting it easy . I thought it was just old age creeping up on me with this one today .

    The prefab chimney runs up the outside wall about 15 feet . I could feel a good pull through it with nothing connected . I think the draft regulator might be a necessity .

    The unions are a good idea . We put a few on the boiler supply and return , just in case . Thanks Todd .
  • Clammy

    We got the Buderus control , not the fancy one though . I didn't have a chance to look at it yet , but I think it controls the indirect and powers whatever zones are hooked in .

    How low a stack temp do you think I can go with a new triple wall stainless flue ? Thanks Clammy , I'll post some pics tomorrow .
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,103
    8182

    the low on 150 and the high on 180 differental on 10 .i used this on my boilers with indirect tanks i've found on all cold start boiler there will be a lag on domestics water with the 8182 i've never had a not enough hot water call and set aa a proirity it,s a fool proof espically if the boiler is sized to the heat loose and not the tank btu demand .Also with the boiler warm even when the burners set at 0 smoke you go back 1 or 2 years later the boiler still clean .That something i picked up on from removing old boilers with coils that maintanced temp for domestic hot water they where always clean while alot of the cold start boilers would always be dirty and hard to clean .8182 aquastat and low limit circ it's that same as buderus pump logic clcles pump off on low temp old stuff nothing new it's always keep them clean by kee[em warm and on reglar boilers help the boilers not condensate when off and on start up keep your combustion chambers from inching off the back target wall just my opion
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • Control by sunlight

    Not a bad idea . Only turns the recirc line on when the sun is out . What about a low limit to control the bronze ? Say it shuts the bronze pump off when the solar tank drops below a certain temp ?

    Or what about this - disconnecting the hot and cold to the solar tank , and using these connections to tie the solar domestic into the boiler water ? . It would be a closed system , of course . I could then make another zone pump the heated solar water through the boiler - control it by the high limit of the boiler aquastat and a low limit on the solar tank . Too many ideas , too little time . Thanks 1chmb .

  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,103
    low stack

    Too tell you the truth if it's triple wall stainless i don't think low stack would effect it one bit .The smaller 115 size 34 i installed last week i had to remove the baffles to get a 350 with them i was aroung 275 can't believe it .i believe the lower stack should not effect it it's not mansonary .That fancy control does the domestics priority but it will not maintain boiler temp had a few 215 with them controls always seemed to get a little dirty like mild condensation but for what the boiler was doing it wouldn't be uncommon for a standard boiler to be getting wet .PS the ones with the promblem are only serviced by the company i work for we had nothing to do with the boiler radiant and indirect layout and install when it get real bad we will fix but the plumbers in charge let him make up the excuse for the bs .But that logicmatic is loaded with alot of stuff that booklet is enough to keep you reading ,do yourself a favor get a good loose leaf booklet and toss that booklet in it and keep it by the boiler if your not familar with the control it can be fun for some one at 1 or 2 in the morning when it's cold peace clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • I can prioritize

    the solar tank with a Taco single relay - it has an extra end switch with NO - NC contacts . I could also wire in the bronze circ so it will only pump if theres enough heat in the solar tank to preheat the indirect . I would also have to wire in a limit to stop the bronze pump if the indirect heats to it's limit . Unless I set the solar tank and indirect tank to the same temp ?

    The only problem is if the solar tank is prioritized and say the sun is down , and it aint making hot water - what will un-prioritize it ? Unless I break power to the relay through a low limit , sending power through the NC end switch of the priority relay , to turn on the indirect circ ? OK , now I'm getting a headache .
  • dconnors
    dconnors Member Posts: 215
    From the source

    You cant direct vent the 215 without a power ventor. It is made to be stacked. Eat your wheaties.lol As far as the rest of the system, I would pipe the solar collector with a motoreized valve that will take it out of the loop as the temp. drops in the collector.
This discussion has been closed.