Oil Burner Won't Fire - Lightning

Grogan

Large pine 20' from my house was struck by lightning over the weekend, causing the loss of several electronic items. Have a brand new Weil-McLain Gold P-WGO-4 boiler that now won't ingite. I'm a retired electrician and would like to just replace the damaged item as I'm on a limited budget nowadays.

Primary control is a Honeywell R7184P1080. Going out on reset. I get the blinking lockout light. Becket burner with a model 746001 electronic igniter.

Is it always either the control or the igniter that's damaged by the lightning ? What's the recommended way to test both ?

Thanks !

Nick Z._2

Lightning

Does not mix well with electronic controls.I have never seen one blink on lock out from a srtike though. From what I've seen after a strike there is no light on at all.
Remember you're working on something that burns a fuel, and creates CO2. Might not be a bad idea to call a technican.

tommyoil

What happens

Does the burner start when you push the reset button? Where are you located?

Grogan

Re: What Happens ?

I have a Storex making hot water from this boiler. Once the water became noticeably cool, I checked the boiler and she was out on reset - the green led was blinking. Pressing the reset brought the pump on, but no ignite. I also happened to be low on oil, so I got a load, bled the line and replaced the filter. Still the same.

My plumber buddy said to check for spark with a screw driver across the electrodes, but I figured I'd ask here first. He says he believes the ingiter module is what usually is damaged by lighting. I could dig out my multimeter and go to testing if someones got a place for me to start. I've wired maybe 500 boilers in my time, but never came across the lightning circumstance.

I'm in Northeastern Massachusetts, btw.

Grogan

Oh, and she definately was firing that morning just before I took the lightning strike.

Grogan

Oh, and she definately was firing that morning just before I took the lightning strike.

Ken D.

No Ignition

Sounds as though its the ignition module.

Steamhead

If the motor starts but the primary locks out

it's likely an ignition or fuel supply problem. After a lightning strike I'd say probably ignition.

Don't try to test the ignitor with a screwdriver. If it's still good you'll blow it out after possibly shocking yourself (14-20 KV) and if it's bad you may still get a nasty shock.

A good service tech will have a special ignitor tester that will tell him or her in a few minutes if the unit is bad. From there it's basic oil burner troubleshooting.

I realize you're not the average homeowner- and you sound like the kind of customer I like to deal with. Nevertheless, this is the time to call a pro.

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tommyoil

Hey Steamhead

I do not perform the screwdriver test,as I have the appropriate diagnostic equipment. But, believe it or not, it is the suggested procedure according to Beckett tech bulletin of May of '99. Potential for a shocking experience, wouldnt you say? I'm not telling how to do it. Sorry, better call the service tech.

ed wallace

oil burner

hi im in eastern ma. get in touch with me im listed under find a contractor

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Robert O'Connor_6

Electronic Oil Ignitor testing

I have been told by several manufacturers of electronic ignitors not to test them with a screwdriver. The type of voltage they create can kill ya. Just bend the tabs and make it jump pole to pole.Some can be ohm tested

The old style conventional can style transformers the screwdriver test is acceptable.

As far as testers for the new electronic ignitor the jury is still out from what I read and hear . I have a Dongan tester for traditional transformer- heavy but effective!

Regards

Robert

ME

Glenn Harrison_2

Here's a little help for you.

This is a link to the Honeywell manual for the control you have. It's a .pdf file so you'll need adobe acrobat reader to open it.

http://hbctechlit.honeywell.com/techlit/PDF/69-0000s/69-1233.pdf

You need to check the outputs of the control first. You know your getting 120 to the burner motor. The question is are you getting 120 volt to the ignitor, and 120 volt to the solenoid on the pump 15 seconds ~ after the motor starts. If all outputs are o.k. on the R7184, then the next safest test would be to turn off the burner, disconnect the oil nozzle line from the burner end, and run it into a bucket, and refire the burner. If you get oil out of the nozzle line 15 ~ seconds after the burner starts, then you know the solenoid on the pump is good. This leaves the ignitor as the only possibility, and saves you the trouble of doing an unsafe screwdriver test.

tommyoil

Robert

Did you see the tech bulliten from Beckett? As unbelievable as it sounds, they actually do suggest a "well insulated screwdriver". Not my method of choice.Pretty scary,huh?

Grogan

Thanks to all who responded

It was the igniter that was damaged by the lightning. Thanks to Glenn H's bit of trade courtesy, I was able to verify that and replace it for cheap money. It'll be nice to take a hot shower after 4 days. All y'alls help was much appreciated.

Grogan

Rookie_3

Screwdriver test

Hey Tommy, if Beckett is saying it's OK with all the liablity issues in the world how bad can it be? Line voltage stepping up to 10,000v off a transformer is only about a 1/4 amp.,That won't kill you and just think, you won't need your morning coffee for a few days if it bites you!!
I had an old timer teach me that way. By the strength and color of the spark. He said.....be careful, because if it gets you, you won't like it!!!!!!!!!

Robert O'Connor_6

I've

tested thousands with the screwdriver. I'm ok with it as long as it's a conventional transformer. Only got bit once . Screwdriver had a crack in the handle. Felt like more than a 1/4 amp!!

I wouldn't test an electronic one that way.

Regards

Robert

tommyoil

no guts,no glory

Yeah, I suppose coffee would be the last thing on my mind if I got walloped by 14,000(1/4 amp or not) I dont do it( the screwdriver deal).I never had much faith in screwdriver insulation.The testers are cheap enough.