Honeywell Zone Valve

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

Bill at Honeywell or anyone else that wants to chime in:

This looks like a Honeywell zone valve (couldn't find a model number) that's operated by a line voltage thermostat; all the wires have been disconnected (5 wires) and the owner wants me to get it back in operation.

No problem except do you see those two wires coming out of the box behind the zone valve? When the thermostat is turned on, I get 110 volts out of each wire (1 meter lead on the wire and the other meter lead on the box which I'm guessing is grounded).

Any ideas?

What I'm thinking about doing is removing the old zone valve and replacing it with a 24 volt zone valve and installing a controller (like a Taco SR501). I'm just a bit put off by 110 v. out of each wire.



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oil-2-4-6-gas

.

.what voltage do you get when you check both wires together//110 ,220 or nothing

Weezbo

is .

there are new heads and some new valve that screws into the body..pretty sure its a 1960's model honeywell:) look on the transformer has a run date on it that number tells you the year....65 66 67 like that... The transformer numbers i almost can read i am just not good at computer stuff:( if you enlarge the photo..maybe you can get one new replacement head and all is cool:)

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

Voltage

at both wires is zero. Seems too weird and will make another trip to clarify.

Weezbo: that closet is too small for both my head and a flashlight; I will have to remove the zone valve to see any numbers.

Alan

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David_5

Just install a transformer

Wire 115v to primary and secondary to the new 24V zone valve. I can't explain the two hots into the box. I think you need to find out where the wire comes from.

David

Glenn Harrison_2

Is it possible that...

one wire goes to the thermostat and one comes back fromthe t-stat??? So white is not neccesarily common/nuetral?

Weezbo

those old valves are Heavy...

the new things they use to update them are made of Plastic:))) somethings Never change:) the new test meters weigh in like 2 and a half ozs the old Bacharac... or worse yet, Lynn... you see:) nowadays i bet they could spin out two three new Japaneese cars outta ten honewelly zones valves from the 60's and a couple old 8&1/4" skill saws:) and one of the Original HOLE hoggs:))) oh that closet does seem like an ideal place to practise changing zonevalves out while standing on ones ear:) should be a new Olympic event...:) buncha plumbers trying to sort out a zone valve while standing on one ear:)))

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

Old thermostat

.

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Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

With

the cover off:

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BillW@honeywell

I've been away for a couple days...

so I just got this. That is a very old product, and has no direct replacement. It's a line voltage system, and those oddball leads may have gone to another piece of equipment. You can replace it with a conventional V4043 series line voltage zone valve in 1/2,3/4 or 1" sizes, sweat,flare or NPT. There are a couple of stat options, T451 or T651. This will give you two position control (on/off). If you need or want proportional control, you'll need a commercial type V5011 with a direct-coupled actuator, and appropriate stat.

Tom Hopkins

Bad Neutral

It sounds to me like the neutral wire is open if that's a 120vac circuit.

If the neutral wire is open you will read 120 volts back through the coil/motor or whatever is being controlled. Trace the neutral circuit out back to the panel. I'll bet it's open somewhere.

I've gotten bit by open neutrals on a couple of occasions.

oil-2-4-6-gas

/

i would say the same if the nuetral is bad you will feedback and get 110 on both but zero -lead to lead or someone switched a wire somewhere and you have 110 on both -- of the same phase//trace them out replace and hook up another zone valve