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zone valve location
Larry (from OSHA)
Member Posts: 727
and I'd like to get it the best it can be the first time around. I've got Honeywell zone valves which are currently installed on the supply side and they bang when closing (yes they are installed in the right direction). I would like some opinions as to whether it makes a difference to put them on the return side. Currently, the system has the circulator on the return and three zones of baseboard plus an indirect hot water tank. The plan is to put the circulator on the supply so it is pumping away and pipe the indirect as a parallel circuit.
So what is the location most likely to minimize banging when one zone closes and others are still calling?
Some history on my situation can be found at this link.
http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&Thread_ID=16744&mc=11#Message104878
As always, thanks (and by the way Hot Rod, I did get the books you suggested. Best reading in a long time!)
Larry
So what is the location most likely to minimize banging when one zone closes and others are still calling?
Some history on my situation can be found at this link.
http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&Thread_ID=16744&mc=11#Message104878
As always, thanks (and by the way Hot Rod, I did get the books you suggested. Best reading in a long time!)
Larry
0
Comments
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Check the pump size
make sure you don't have too much pump power. Most residential stuff will work with a Grundfos 15-58. Maybe even speed 1.
I zone valve on the return, always have. No noise, they see a bit lower water temperature (heat kills all electro mechanical devices in the end:), and the 15-58 has a built in flow check to prevent any ghost or reverse flow.
Been using Erie ZVs for years without any problems. The new Calleffi's have my attention, however. Larger port, nicer operator and lower price. Still hard to argue with the great track record of the Eries.
hot rod
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If heat is what kills zone valves
why are they soldered in place? Do you mean the heat kills the motors?0 -
motors and
even the rubber or EPDM components will fail from heat breakdown over the years.
I think the pop top valves make a lot of sense, from a soldering standpoint. Most ZV manufactures ask you to remove the operator before soldering. Depends on how careful you are with the torch, I suppose
hot rod
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I think the callepis are eries bodies.....
least they Look like it to me:) and told their salesmen too:)0 -
return?
does this mean you should not put them on the supply at all?0 -
supply side zv
If you mount your zone valves on the supply then make sure you run a by pass to the return this will stop all banging and also raises your your return temp to pervent thermal shock on intental start up great for oil but don,t forget a 1/2 at minuim by pass line i,ve also found that with the zone valves on the supply i don't get any migrsation in my other zones .I,ve piped them that way if i have 3 or 4 zones base board zones and a indirect ,the indirect will have it's own pump this way it will have priority over the heat zones and on the supply no flow control valve is used only on the indirect but in all just install a by pass to the return peace clammyR.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating0 -
zone valves
We always install zone valves on the supply side and use both Erie and Honeywell. The only time I've noticed problems is when either too much pump is used or when the piping is just plain wrong ie not "pumping away". I would suggest a simple bypass to remedy this. If possible post a picture of the boiler piping.0 -
supply
I havent piped the unit so my options are open. Where does the line go to I know before the first zone valve but I am doing a reverse return type so do this at the start of the return or the end and do I need a valve in this line also what size line 175mbh boiler0
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