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cast iron radiators
AJG
Member Posts: 16
Hello,
Anyone know how hard it is to re-size old cast iron radiators? I have 10 radiators, all the same style, and I need 3 large rads for a very large room. I'd like to add sections. How hard are they to get apart and put back together and will they leak? Has anyone done this? Thanks, AJ
Anyone know how hard it is to re-size old cast iron radiators? I have 10 radiators, all the same style, and I need 3 large rads for a very large room. I'd like to add sections. How hard are they to get apart and put back together and will they leak? Has anyone done this? Thanks, AJ
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Comments
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You will need
longer threaded rod, or rod couplings. On extremely long radiators some times an intermediate section [with legs] was used to support the center.
I have taken apart and reassembled many radiators. Everyone may have their own method but I like to lay a couple of sturdy planks across a couple of saw horses. Have two or three big burly helpers lay the radiator on its side and drive a wedge between the sections to divide. After you remove the threaded rod of course. I like oak wedges, iron will work but be careful.
The most difficult part of the job is saving the push nipples. Give the push nipples a light coat of pipe dope , like Hercules Pro-dope, and make sure they are "square" in the taper end of the radiator. Draw the rod up just a little and give a sharp rap to end of the radiator with a wooden block and a 3 or 4 lb. hammer. Make sure it draws up "square".
With 10 spare radiators to "harvest" you should be able to come up with enough good sections and good push nipples.
Plug the ends and test for leaks with a garden hose.0 -
Removing Nipples
I ground down the end of a 3/8" or so wide flat screwdriver to make it quite blunt--probably about 3/16" wide. Support section over an edge and lightly tap screwdriver end as you keep moving it around the end of the nipple (you're inside the section of course). Some are stubborn and you'll really mess up the end--I don't use those. Others come out much easier. Little nicks in the very end don't seem to hurt anything.
With plenty of spare sections, I'd separate a number of individuals and have a "stock" of different combinations of "nipples left in sections".
If you have a 36" or 48" pipe wrench you can put the handle (sideways) between sections and "jerk" to disassemble. Quick and sharp jerk! An old-timer showed me that--before I'd used oak wedges. If you do make the wood wedges, make certain that the grain is running the long way--otherwise they just snap off easily. Don't even bother with pine from the lumber yard--WAY too soft.0 -
Using black silicon on push nipples instead of pipe dope was suggested a while back. Any furthur thoughts on that?0 -
Silicon
Why not? The idea is to lubricate the nipple and reduce friction when you draw up the sections.0 -
Radiator nipples
You are all assuming that the raditors he has have push nipples. It seems that most of the radiators I have use threaded nipples. I am still looking for the special wrenches used to assemble these type of sections.
Dave in DenverThere was an error rendering this rich post.
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