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remote operated TRVs

sarah_4 Member Posts: 15
The "every darn radiator except mine" frame got blown out so I'm re-posting. I thought steamhead's idea of putting the trvs on in the basement was brilliant in its simplicity, but does anyone know about getting a three-story-long capillary tube? (I think that's what it's called...the wire that connects the valve to the wall sensor/thermostat that controls the actual valve's position). I looked at the websites for honeywell, danfoss and oventrop; couldn't find anything remote except on honeywell, but as I recall that wire is like five feet long, which won't help. The giant radiators have the afore-mentioned double taps, so breaking into them would be a nightmare.

thanks you guys...you've been really helpful.



  • Ken_8
    Ken_8 Member Posts: 1,640
    I suspect you're going to have to...

    re-think the "remote" notion as you have conceived it and think electric, not cap. tube type.

    I thought I followed and maybe posted to the original thread. Nonetheless, you are correct. Breaking into those dbl tapped supplies or returns - assuming you already have a 2-pipe-RR system or something that would allow such restrictive piping designs implies begs the question, "Are you sure all rads are fed from independent risers i.e., a supply and return riser on a trunk in the basement (accessible) for every single rad in the house?

    If so, an electric sensor may be located in the room behind or near each rad, and tiny 'stat wire dropped/snaked from the sensor (near each rad) into the basment, wher w 3-way mixing valve placed on each supply (or return) riser pipe - effectively making each rad a zone unto itself.

    If this makes no sense, "breaking into" either the supply or return may not be such a bad alternate. Especially if the TRV selected has a union built in.

    I would suspect a much less costly design would simply have uyou installing inexpensive balancing valves on all the supply risers (or just the returns) and continue tweaking each one until the desired comfort (output) of each rad meets the comfort point you desire.

    Remember to consider the following: "You can make a cool radiator warmer - despite the balance valve being wide open, BY CLOSING DOWN ALL THE REST A HAIR! Many people don't get that. I have a hunch you will.

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  • DWood
    DWood Member Posts: 60
    Long capillary tube

    Danfoss makes a wall mounted operator with a 26 foot capillary tube, which may be enough for your three story application if the valve is installed low and operator high, part # 13G5068.
    Good luck
  • G. Gibbs
    G. Gibbs Member Posts: 30
    33 ft cap tube

    Oventrop part #1012297...33ft. the attachment shows a 6.5 ft cap
  • sarah_4
    sarah_4 Member Posts: 15
    tees, balancing valves, etc

    I got a bunch of great links to long cap tube mfrs, but you may be right--an elec. zone valve might be the way to go.

    The system is direct return-- there is a main "trunk" line in the basement which all the rad supplies come off of. This trunk terminates in the last rad on the line, so the return from that rad becomes the trunk return, into which all the other returns go.

    Am I correct in thinking that the 1-1/4 x3/4 tees that upfeed the rads are not diverter, that diverter is only for one pipe systems, and that on my system, it's the bigger space in the rads that makes the water willing to go up there?

    and is there a particular brand of balancing valve you like?

    I do indeed understand the idea of shutting down the warm ones to make the cold one warmer...:) in general, however, there is a huge learning curve here for me!

    thanks again

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