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heating a barn
Constantin
Member Posts: 3,796
If the barn is going to be in constant use, a radiant floor system cast into concrete is hard to beat. Besides, you'll love it if you have to do anything while lying on the floor. Go with a condensing boiler if you're planning on using gas, otherwise chose a design that can handle cold water in the return.
However, if you're planning on using the barn only intermittently, it may make more economic sense to use a air-based system. They heat up quick, though the floor will stay cold. That way, you only expend energy when you expect to use it.
The most important factor is still the heat loss, particularly if the place is not heavily insulated. All the exposed roof, etc. makes traditional barns quite the heat sink.
However, if you're planning on using the barn only intermittently, it may make more economic sense to use a air-based system. They heat up quick, though the floor will stay cold. That way, you only expend energy when you expect to use it.
The most important factor is still the heat loss, particularly if the place is not heavily insulated. All the exposed roof, etc. makes traditional barns quite the heat sink.
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Comments
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what is the best way
tell me. best way to design. tell me.0 -
barn in alaska.
poured insulated 2"foam with radiant 1/2' loops ,seperate room for boiler,oil fired boiler with tiger loop combo and riello BF with outside air slant fin with spiro vent pumping away ,zoned multi loop headers , small 3/4 bath seperate room drain in the floor of boiler room. Build stout,keep lights away from where horses can jump up an gettum:)0 -
radiant
Should I control the radiant system with air temp or slab temp.
Slab temp sensor would seem to make sense in a drafty barn. Just want to keep barn above freezing by a few degrees.0 -
As I am a mere homeowner myself...
... I defer to the experts here. My gut feeling is that if the floor is being heated just for freeze protection throughout the space that I'd opt for a air-based temperature solution. One KISS approach is to use TRVs like the Danfoss FHV series along with constant circulation and a differential-pressure bypass.
I'd insulate at least 2" XPS under the slab within 4' of the foundation walls, only skimp towards the center of the slab, if necessary. The 12" OC spacing sounds good, as long as you can create zones with less than 300' of tubing each. Ideally, run the coils adjacent to the exterior wall on 6" centers. See Dan Holohan and Sigenthalers books on radiant for more info... lots of good stuff there!.0 -
A horse is happy it is warmer there than outside:)
radiant controled by slab or room temp will work fine,for outside work 45¡ãF is a heat wave:) and radiant that maintains in around 45 is fairly economical...if you had lots of work to do indoors you could turn it up to 56¡ãF the day before...56 is a good working mans temp ...0
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