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Anode protection for oil tanks
Dave Mayer -3 Sons Heating
Member Posts: 59
Good Evening Gentlemen:
A few years ago "zinc balls" were being pushed in this area (Massachusetts). The theory being that water etc. would attack the balls before rotting the tank. Has anyone ever thought of or tried installing a 3/4" anode rod directly into the top of an oil tank with a 2"x3/4" bushing? This initial thought seems to make sense to me. Any thoughts from the other oilguys?
Thank You:
Dave Mayer Sr.
A few years ago "zinc balls" were being pushed in this area (Massachusetts). The theory being that water etc. would attack the balls before rotting the tank. Has anyone ever thought of or tried installing a 3/4" anode rod directly into the top of an oil tank with a 2"x3/4" bushing? This initial thought seems to make sense to me. Any thoughts from the other oilguys?
Thank You:
Dave Mayer Sr.
0
Comments
-
The water in the oil tank is on the bottom. Here tanks must be pitched to the outlet putting the water in the lower corner of the tank. So more than likely the anode would never get to the water.
"Maine" Ken0 -
hmmm
I agree with you. All tanks here are pitched as well. But, do you think the condensation that forms on the inside walls during the summer would go to the anode or the bottom first? I have not put my "newest brainstorm" into practice yet. But, I am sure that it would not hurt anything. I am just curious how functional it would be. If the water that forms goes into solution before sinking to the bottom then I am sure the anode would help. Any ideas?????
Dave0 -
IMHO,
I think the oil would coat the anode, and block the sacrifical breakdown of the zincs. Its best to keep the water bottom in any tank to an absolute minimum.0 -
placement
Hello: I'm a water heater tank guy rather than an oil tank guy, but if the rusting you're trying to stop is at the bottom, laying a rod shaped anode down there and hooking it up with a coated wire to the tank might help. Water needs to be in contact with the anode for it to work. Oil on the rod (from lowering it) might prevent that working. Magnesium is more active than zinc and should protect better. Any anode will create corrosion byproduct, which you need to be prepared to clean out. Hope those thoughts help.0 -
In theory
In theory with a pitched tank the water drains off to the filter, gone. Now while it is in the tank it can mix with whatever is in there causing all kinds of corrosion. So, use an oil company that sells Tank Guard. Once a year it is put in the tank, neutralizes whatever and insures the tank from leakage. If the tank leaks they put in a new one, you pay a very small fee if any. No, I don't work for that company, I just like seeing others have to replace a tank rather than me .0 -
Anode
We once had many homes in a development that had underground electric lines near the underground tanks. After several premature tank failures we installed magnesium anodes on the outside of the underground tanks This greatly improved the situation. But getting back to your question. If the anode balls are indeed round and not tethered,it seems to me if you put them into the tank fill, they would roll into the lowest point of the tank where the water also would be, keeping them active This would, of course apply only to tanks with supply lines in the top of the tank. Just thinking aloud.0 -
steel
and water. fun fun fun ...... anodes might do something to postpone the inevitable and if that is what you need than, what will you loose by trying. You can inspect it every few years and watch the change in the rod. I would look at a non steel tank. This would be an improvement and could solve the problem. The water would not hurt the tank and could be removed when needed.0
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