near blr ppg/steamer?

ernie_3

Weil-Mclain calls for a 2 1/2" header w'an allowable 2" riser and a 1 1/2" equalizer on the PSGO-4. I frequently pipe this 2" all the way. 2" riser, header, equalizer and Hartford. I feel this works based on experience and have never had a problem w' noise or surging using this piping. I'd like to find literature to prove this works. any thoughts? They also show their main take-off at a 90` to the header.

Ken_8

Ernie,

Of course we are only referring to steam.

It is always best to use as large a riser and header and equalizer as you can. This we know produces the driest steam.

This is typically determined by what is already there (that we have to connect to) - as well as the outlet diameter tapped into the supply tapping(s) by the manufacturer.

We have found no problems using inch and a half equalizers and so rarely "upsize" on that leg of the near boiler piping.

I suspect we have already seen the "literature" and it is called the installation piping schematics. Virtually all manufacturers provide "minimum" pipe sizes. By implication, this infers there is no "maximum"! I agree; this is not stated. But be assured; it is implied!

And those of us in the "know," interpret those sizes to be exactly what they are - "minimum."

The real issue is where does one draw the line between the impact on near boiler pipe and fittings cost - and, the driest of all possible steam output?

I address the problem by using the largest riser(s) the boiler block supply tapping can take (why pay for a skinny pipe and expensive bushing - when you can just screw a full sized nipp into the block without another potential leak and extra fitting? The costs are very close. The results are awesome. Not quite such a "no-brainer" if you use a side outlet brand boiler, but because of that being a poor design anyhow - we never use a side outlet brand steam boiler.

Anyhow, that's a whole different kettle of fish.

Hope this answers your post.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Steamhead

Side-outlet steamers

aren't so bad, just keep everything full-size and follow all the other manufacturer's piping directions and it works fine. And you can also use the side-outlets as skim or hose-out tappings, as we did on this Columbia. The drop-header shown wasn't required, but it works so much better.

If this were a Vapor system, with its faster-moving steam at only a few ounces pressure, we probably would have gone with a 3-inch header rather than the 2-1/2-inch one specified. This would serve to further slow the steam down in the header so any water getting that far would drop to the bottom and return to the boiler thru the equalizer.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

J.C.A._3

Nice Steamhead!

Quality IS priceless!

If you've got any questions on piping a steamer, the "minimums" are just that. If you've got to go over the (yet, un-noted)"maximum", call the manufacturer and ask them to direct you to the tech. dept. . If they can't answer your questions, ask them who to speak with next.

When all else fails, come to The Wall, someone will have some input . Chris

Ken_8

Frank,

I can only imagine the "waves" forming inside the boiler being "sheared" by the horizontal opening and all that water traveling along for the ride - despite the dropped header. I wouldn't dream of using anything but a dropped header with a horizontal outlet. Using both helps some - but at what expense?

Gimme a pair of 3" end section riser tappings and fawgettabowt all that dropped header dualy take offs stuff.

Why should you pipe a boiler that way to overcome a manufacturing design shortfall?

By the time you pipe the gull-wing, side-winder take-offs, the near boiler piping makes the boiler footprint bigger than a 747 and the cost for all those extra fittings and dualies excedes what a properly designed boiler might run.

I'll pass on the Columbia.



To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Unknown

I agree

You want to keep the header as close to the boiler as possible , with basement space at a premium . But that job Steamhead posted looks like he had plenty of room to work . How far a distance is there between the water line and the boiler steam tappings on the Columbia ?

Hey Ken , your crew ever finish that big job you posted pics of ? The one where your son was torching out a boiler ? Any pics of the completed work ?

Steamhead

But

if it gets real dirty in there, I can pop the plugs on both side outlets and the similar one we put on the return connection, and insert a piece of 1/2" pipe with a street elbow on one end and the other connected to a hose. This setup lets me direct a stream of water between all the sections and gives me a nice big drain opening to wash the dirt out of.

Easiest water-side cleaning method I know- and without chemicals of any kind!

Ron, that was the first time we used a drop-header. I wanted to try one where we could work with it easily, before using one in a confined space. The cost of the extra couple of fittings was more than offset by the time saved putting it together, so we're drop-header people now where a boiler needs more than one riser to the header. The distance between the normal waterline and the steam tappings on the Columbia (and similar Utica) is roughly 4 inches, so water doesn't carry over if the boiler is not overfilled.

And thanks, J.C.A.!

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"