radiant tubing in concrete slab

Wild Bill

Would anyone care to give me an approximate amount of time it might take to lay Stadler tubing down on a basement floor around 1100 square feet. I think I will use the Stadler "cork screw" clips screwed down into the foam insulation, prior to the concrete pour. If anyone can has any experience on this type of installation, it would be most appreciated. How long do you typically pressure test for? Thank you!!

Dan Peel

Timing

You will use up most of a day if this is your first tube job, first time with screw clips and working without an uncoiler. Making up a stand-up install tool for the clips helps some - tying to wire is much quicker. Check out the "And the winner is" thread. Enjoy.......Dan

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S Ebels

Tips

Don't know if you have access to an uncoiler but it's as good as an extra man. Get one if you can.

We "field-engineered" some stand up devices for installing the screw clips out of 1" EMT conduit. Cut the conduit about 36" to 42" long depending on how tall you are and put a rubber or plastic crutch tip on one end. Put the business end of the EMT in a vice and squeeze it down till it holds the screw clip firmly enough to hold it snug. Now you can put a clip in the oval shaped end and stand up to run them in the foam.

Stadler makes a stapler that drives plastic staples for use in foam applications that works awesome. We just did a floor last week that ate up 2200" of tube.Two guys, one experienced and one rookie did it in 4 hours using their spool uncoiler and the staple gun.

DaveGateway

Stadler corkscrew clip

Where can I find out about these?
I just did a Google search on: Stadler corkscrew clip &
Stadler cork screw clip with no hits?
Thanks Bill Patrick

Dave_16

Stadler corkscrew clip

> Where can I find out about these? I just did a

> Google search on: Stadler corkscrew clip

> & Stadler cork screw clip with no hits? Thanks

> Bill Patrick



Check out www.stadlerviega.com for more information

Dave_16

Stadler corkscrew clip

Check out there web site at www.stadlerviega.com or call them at 1-877-viega-na

Weezbo

Start with keeping everything the same....

same ness is a good thing in radiant floor ,if you have zones then think out where the t stats are going and keep the tubing from another zone clearly away from that location,if you make one loop 220' then do the same with the rest of them,if you have three bedrooms say on one zone and living room on the other then go with two loops covering one zone and two loops covering the other and once again go for keeping these loop lengths the same. stay away from toilet flanges, sharp objects and edges of forms.consider placing extra near windows or outside doors, its going to take you a while..maybe all day,if you run out of fasteners you may be there a while longer...have some zip ties and plastic staples for tricky areas maybe some conduit bends for transition out of the slab at the header locations maybe some plastic pipe clamps for the conduit bends fastening to a 2X4 to keep everything the same.depending on the outside temperature, pressure testing is an art form:) go with 100 psi.leave it alone an hour. if it is going night it may lose a couple pounds if its going after noon it may go Up! a few pounds or more.once you are satisfied that you are holding a steady pressure, drop it down to like 60 psi or follow manufacturers specs and let the ideas you heard here mellow in your mind gotta fly.

hr

Foam clips

should be available from all the pex manufactures. This is a Watts Radiant one.

I agree with ME, mesh and ties are a good solid and inexpensive method. Two twists of a 6" bar tie and away you go.

If you do a lot of mesn/ pex, the Watts Radiant Clip Tie is a must have

hot rod

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Weezbo

so you are done Hey?!

all is well in consumer of wall ville:) do me a small favor if anything of what i said saved you some hassels,send 10$ to Dan hoolihans buy a brick fund:) then some other people might find one of us about to help them in the future:) Your friend william in the Frozen north:)