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Plumbing question.

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jwade55_3
jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
for me parents. I need to run the waste lines approx 35 feet to tie in to existing soil stack. Planning on running it through an unheated crawlspace, what precautions should I take? You know I do this heating stuff every day, almost seems easy sometimes, but plumbing, now that is another story.

One plumber told me all I needed to know was:

S%&t flows down hill.
Hot on the left.
Boss is a jerk.
Friday is payday.
Don't bite your fingernails.

I think there is more to it than that.

Thanks,

J

Comments

  • Pat Clark
    Pat Clark Member Posts: 187
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    plumbing answer

    Those are the main things you have to know. Absolutely.

    Oh and the unheated crawl space? Don't worry about it unless you have a lot of openings to outside that can't be shut (such as louvered vents, etc), and your in a very very cold climate. We plumb waste and water lines all the time in unheated crawl spaces. Just use common sense and keep them away from the edges as best as possible. We typically get to 20 below in the winter here in Anchorage Alaska.

    Hope that answers your question.

    Pat
  • jwade55_3
    jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
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    Yes sir

    thank you very much. The line will run near the existing house, and our weather doesn't get nearly as cold as yours.

    J
  • Mark   Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 49
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    New age plumbers...

    Pay day is on the first and the fifteenth, and that's NEVER Friday.

    We've got pumps that'll pump $#IX up ANY hill you got.

    Hot on the right from a roughing in point of view.

    Tough to chew fingernails through leather gloves.

    I AM the boss, GET BACK TO WORK!!

    :-)

    ME
  • DaveGateway
    DaveGateway Member Posts: 568
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    plumbing

    Keep waste lines pitched @ 1/4 per foot [therefore the pipe should be mostly empty] Aqua pex would be a nice touch w/ insulation or if you can keep it up in the joists maybe even drill em' & run the pipe above the insulation

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  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
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    dont worry about it....:)

    unlike the other guys here :) i am an old school plumer greduate,payday runs down hill and Oh **** Its Thursday:):)) seriously though keep in from the exterior two feet ...1/4 bubble ,,,,dont forget the clean outs and you be habby camper.:) i plumb new homes however i got alot of practise on Variant type systems :)they are all over the place in Alaska:)it gets somewhat chillier around here than the balmy sub tropics of Anchorage:)
  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,884
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    Wind

    Stay away from the wind. It allways amaze's how some pipes will not freeze in a cold inviroment if they are sealed from the wind. Drain pipes should be O.K. But I would NEVER install water pipes in a cold space. I will differ to those from Alaska, but after last years N.E. winter, Never in a cols space.

    Insulate, insulate and buy some good heat tape.

    ME's right, we can pump it up hill ( It just sucks when the pump breaks )

    Scott

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  • jackchips_2
    jackchips_2 Member Posts: 1,338
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    I'm with Scott.

    No water lines in unheated areas. Even heat trace, unless the house is on a generator, will not work when the power goes out.

    If it is necessary, try to install the pipes above the crawl space insulation.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928
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    One other \"truism\"

    Every drain has a trap and every trap has a vent.
  • Murph'_5
    Murph'_5 Member Posts: 349
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    Stop over in the Mornin' Jay

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    We will give you a crash course !!




    Murph'
  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
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    Interesting Comment from Plumbing Engineer

    He told me that the current 4" requirments in residential may be reduced to 3" in order to effect better flow with low-volume toilets. Allegedly, they are causing more blockages in wide pipes than anticipated. Is this the consensus on this board too?

    Another interesting tidbit was the observation to keep things between 1/8" and 1/4" in terms of pitch. Anything pitched steeper than 1/4" will cause the solids to stay behind while the water runs off to the sanitation sewer. We're using 1/6" as it pitched the pipe to come out right above the footing.

    I'm still scratching my head why Cambridge is requiring the use of 6" drain pipe beyond 10' from the house. At least they've backpedaled from requiring us to use cast iron for the first ten feet...
  • jwade55_3
    jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
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    thanks murph,

    > _A

    > HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

    > 314&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

    > Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

    > "Find A Professional"_/A_

    >

    >

    >

    > We will give you

    > a crash course !!

    >

    >

    >

    > Murph'



  • jwade55_3
    jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
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    thanks murph,

    > _A

    > HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

    > 314&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

    > Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

    > "Find A Professional"_/A_

    >

    >

    >

    > We will give you

    > a crash course !!

    >

    >

    >

    > Murph'



  • jwade55_3
    jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
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    thanks murph,

    > _A

    > HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

    > 314&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

    > Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

    > "Find A Professional"_/A_

    >

    >

    >

    > We will give you

    > a crash course !!

    >

    >

    >

    > Murph'



    maybe next week, I'm on "vacation" this week, working on my house, what a vacation. Thanks to everyone else as well, it is isolated from the wind, h20 supply lines are no problem, they are running through the joist bay with the onix staple up, above the r-foil and R-30 batt insulation. I'm kinda intrigued with this, wonder how cold the "stuff" will get from start to finish, maybe I'll insert a couple of remote readout temp sensors???
  • jwade55_3
    jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
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    thanks murph,

    maybe next week, I'm on "vacation" this week, working on my house, what a vacation. Thanks to everyone else as well, it is isolated from the wind, h20 supply lines are no problem, they are running through the joist bay with the onix staple up, above the r-foil and R-30 batt insulation. I'm kinda intrigued with this, wonder how cold the "stuff" will get from start to finish, maybe I'll insert a couple of remote readout temp sensors???

    J
  • bob_33
    bob_33 Member Posts: 10
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    drippy faucets freeze drains

    you're all set with drain pipe thru unheated space with one suggestion- drippy faucets can cause an ice dam buildup and complete blockage because the water can,t get across the 35 foot cold spot without stopping dead in its tracks and freezing. usually happens on a lesser used line or when people are away for a few days.
  • Greg_15
    Greg_15 Member Posts: 8
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    Rules of Plumbing

    These are the rules as I was taught:
    1 Solids go down
    2 Stink goes up
    3 Hot on the left
    4 Doughnuts and kawfee at 9
  • Murph'_5
    Murph'_5 Member Posts: 349
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    Uhhhhhh....

    Are you running domestic water through onyx? Is that plauseable? don't mind me if that is a stupid Question, I just got in !!



    Murph'



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  • jwade55_3
    jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
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    no no no,

    Onix is for staple up, Watts Waterpex for domestic in same joist bay. And if you ask my opinion I wouldn't run my domestic water in the same tubing as my heating for any reason!!!


    J
  • jwade55_3
    jwade55_3 Member Posts: 166
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    Another point murph,

    If you have never used onix for a staple-up, feel free to join me next week installing mine :)

    J
  • lakota
    lakota Member Posts: 32
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    traps hold water

    If there are any traps in the crawl they might freeze. Seen traps split in half. Wrap them in insulation.
  • Scott Denny
    Scott Denny Member Posts: 124
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    One other truism

    "Every drain has a trap and every trap has a vent."
    Not if the ICC and Balanco have anything to say about it.
    SRD
This discussion has been closed.