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Levelling boilers

to use for levelling boilers on uneven floors ? The Burnham boys came up with the great idea for their V8 line - the feet of the boiler are angled so you can use 1900 box plates or coil plates and hammer them into the feet until the boiler levels itself .

More tricky is the RSA line , or any boiler that has an all flat bottom . Sometimes we cut some copper about 4 inches long and flatten one end to make a wedge , but looks chincy . Does anyone know where to find solid steel wedges ? Any other tricks ? Thanks in advance .


  • jeff_25
    jeff_25 Member Posts: 110

    washers work or what i like to use is s-slip that the tinner use you can interlock them to make as thick as needed also make out of gavl. tin jeff
  • Robert O'Connor_6
    Robert O'Connor_6 Member Posts: 299
    I don't

    know of any others

    The nice feature about Buderus is they have feet that you can screw up or down to level, I'm sure some of the others have this feature.

    On good ole USA boilers I do like you all do


  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    I keep a bunch

    of wood shims, plastic toilet wedges, and those wedges that you drive into the top of hammer handles when you replace the handles.

    The cedar shims work fine for electric or indirect tanks with flat bottoms. Lumber yards sell them by the bundles.

    The plastic toilet shims for light weight and small adjustments.

    And the hammer or axe handle wedges for big loads. They can be stacked also.

    I have also used flattened copper in a pinch. Keep some M, L & K copper for different thickness's :)

    I'm also picky about level boilers, although the tappings are rarely square to the plumb of the boiler :) Usually need a swing ell to plumb, or level, up the piping out of the block.

    Adjustable feet would be nice on boilers. Hardly ever fine a level basement floor :)

    hot rod

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  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    concrete base.

    in the old days [ up 'til 1980 ] we would build a level base w/ 2x4's and cement , the day before. try that today and everyone would clasify you as mental. we use patio blocks from time to time but you still got the unlevel issue.
  • jackchips_2
    jackchips_2 Member Posts: 1,338
    I've used

    all the other suggestions (except the K copper, leave it to Hotrod :-)).

    On difficult floors I'll use concrete blocks and if necessary will level them with mortar first.
  • Jeff_12
    Jeff_12 Member Posts: 9

    I use automotive wheel alignment shims. they come in different thicknesses, of course, I have had them for thirty years. Probably can't get them anymore.
  • gerry gill
    gerry gill Member Posts: 3,077
    with the burham we use

    we break out the plastic guides they put in the feet and install a 1/2'' bolt and two nuts so that the feet become adjustable..got the idea from the base of street lights.
    Serving Cleveland's eastern suburbs from Cleveland Heights down to Cuyahoga Falls.

  • Leo
    Leo Member Posts: 770

    We use 4x4 blank plates for electrical boxes. Our supplier also got us some slugs about as round as a half dollar from a machine shop.

  • Ken D.
    Ken D. Member Posts: 836

    I have used steel shims that are used in machine shops very successfully. They are available at machine shop supply houses. They come in different lengths, widths and thicknesses. Sheet metal panning as well as slips and drives work well also. For severe cases, I have used Dexion (Angle iron)and unistrut with heavy nuts and bolts adjusted similar to washing machines and dryers. It works. Just be sure to secure it to the boiler.
  • Ken_8
    Ken_8 Member Posts: 1,640
    We find a stack of

    fender washers convenient - up to 1/2" works well.

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  • Thank you all for the great ideas

    I'm going to look for steel shims at the machine shop we deal with . I just had a boiler a few days ago where I levelled out 3 corners - and you know what happens when you tighten a fitting on a boiler with 2 coil plates and one electrical plate under it .
  • John@Reliable_9
    John@Reliable_9 Member Posts: 122
    Hey, Ron Jr!

    if the coil plates you talk of are new you better check out how much they are worth. My boilers come w/o a tankless just a blank plate I return those blanks for about a $35 credit and $10 for gasket. Once did a job that had 15 blanks under it damn could've bought lunch for two months! By the way I use 4x4 electrical plates and/or 3/4" flat washers which are about 1 1/2" round, they also work great on tank legs too. John@Reliable
  • Get Out !

    At those prices , I have about $1000 in coil plates and gaskets on my truck . I had no idea they could be returned for credit . Gotta talk to my supervisor about that . Where do you return them for credit , your supply house or the manufacturer ?

    I like using electrical plates too , but if you have a flat bottom on the boiler and need 2 plates or more , it'll spin pretty easy . I try to level the boiler last , right before we pipe the copper out .
  • John@Reliable_9
    John@Reliable_9 Member Posts: 122
    Supply house is ...................

    where I return them. I return the gasket that comes w/ new tankless and use the one that come on boiler. This way it all looks new! I found this buy accident when I needed a blank to install a hot water loop on a steam boiler once, and like you was surprised how much a blank cost. John
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