Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

radiant heat

DaveGateway
DaveGateway Member Posts: 568
in THE MAIN WALL
NFW!

Comments

  • bill_28
    bill_28 Member Posts: 2
    radiant heat

    I want to install radiant heat in a floor over an unheated crawl space. I was thinking about putting 3 inches of r-max foam in between the joists and then installing the radiant tubing on top of that and then there will be 3/4 plywood with 3/4" hardwood on top of that. Will this work ? Will the 1"1/2 of wood be to much for the heat to easily pass through? Will too much heat pass down through the insulation?

    thanks
  • Mike Kraft_2
    Mike Kraft_2 Member Posts: 398
    Bill

    Cut and paste this link.Please read it and understand that radiant is more than just throwing tubing in joist bays.You will need to plan and plan well.It is something you want to work.Start with a heatloss!!!Contact Wirsbo.They will help you alot!They offer the best the industry has.

    cheese

    http://www.pmmag.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP__Features__Item/0,2379,124062,00.html
  • Ted_5
    Ted_5 Member Posts: 272
    It is called a Dry Above System

    it does work, I have it my house. You have to do outdoor reset and constant circulation, if not you get alot of noise. Do a heatloss to find out how much heat you need.
    You can put the hardwood right on top of the tube.

    Ted
  • Dave_22
    Dave_22 Member Posts: 232
    sleepers?

    I'm assuming you mean hardwood on top of plywood sleepers, right?? What make of plates are you using there? Thanks!
  • bill_28
    bill_28 Member Posts: 2


    no sleepers. just a 3/4 inch subfloor
  • Mike Kraft_2
    Mike Kraft_2 Member Posts: 398
    bill..............

    What you are proposing is VERY VERY DOABLE.My point is when doing the job make sure you get informed on addressing the heat load vs. your finished floor panel.As far as insulating.You are heating above an unconditioned space.Crawls pick up thermal rise do to subterrainian construction(typically)But if the foundation is vented or old with alot of air infiltration you must CYA.A CYA attitude should be the mindset always anyway.Making sure your joist bays are insulated tight is great and a must with any joist bay install.Good luck.

    cheese
  • DaveGateway
    DaveGateway Member Posts: 568
    NO SLEEPERS?

    Mike, so you put plywood on top of pex, pressing on it with no support, all the time? Then you put hardwood on top of the plywood & nail it down?
    Don't sound right to me!
    BP
  • Mike Kraft_2
    Mike Kraft_2 Member Posts: 398
    He's proposing

    to attempt a version of staple up.I am trying to encourage by my first post the idea of installing plates.Your surprise is correct at my doable.Let me clear the air:)

    I would insulate the joists.Then add nailers to accept U-Fin from Radiatant Engineering.If the U-fin is brought to the same plane as the tops of the joists it could be screwed down into the nailers.Then his 3/4" sub and finish flooring could go on top.The BIG SNAG will be to take notes of where the plates and tubing are.So no nails do what we hate:).Simply recording the joist centers and the centers between the plates and then snapping lines on these details will allow nailing of the hardwood.

    See link(cut and paste)

    http://www.radiantengineering.com/Links/Ufininst.html


    cheese
This discussion has been closed.

Categories