Wood floor

Jimmy Gillies

Oh no they have done the wrong thing!

The Builder has put two, yes two wood floors over our slim slab system. One is chipboard 18-22mm thick and second is a hard wood 18mm thick. Yes, and as you can guess it's all our fault?

Is there any hope of it heating? We have adjusted the flow temp to it's max.

Is the only way to lift one layer?

Regards.
Jimmy Gillies.

Dale

Groovin

I wonder how many sq feet ( meters) the space is. I guess I would look into setting up a grooving template with a 1/2 in router and add tubing slots to the top wood and lay down more tubing. Good luck

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

The best way

to figure that one out is to do a heat loss calculation on the rooms(s) and then see if your system can provide the BTU output per square foot.

You will also need to know the R-value of the flooring goods. The 18 mm (¾") hardwood has an R-value of .66 (if it's Maple) and I'm guessing the 18-22 mm (¾" - 1") chipboard has an R-value of around 1.0; so to be conservative, the total R-value of your floor construction is 2.0.

You haven't mentioned your tube spacing; if it's 12", you can get 25 BTU's per square foot output at 142° water temperature with a floor temperature of 81°. But I don't know if 25 BTU/[] will be enough.

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Jimmy Gillies

Alan

Thanks for your reply.

The floor in this area needs to produce 75 watts/M2 with a room temp of 16*C. I know that's not very high but we just can't get that floor surface temp (should be 22.4*C).

It is an electric boiler that fires this installation and it is costing a small fortune to try? and heat the building.
Sorry for the metric details.
Regards.
Jimmy.

Dave_22

which....

this equates to 23.77 BTU/ Sq. ft. That's not too bad

Jimmy Gillies

Flow temp.

After a further look at the numbers I see my problem is the flow temp. I just can't get 142*F(61*C)water flow temp.
Well it's all the wood that's the problem! However I can now go back to them and propose a fix.
Thanks to every one for your help, as always you guys are great.
Sometimes you just can't see the WOOD for the trees!
Kind regards.
Jimmy Gillies.

Harold

HOw hot can the water get without causing problems with the wood?

Weezbo

Jimmy, Try isolation of the zone 1st!

with only that zone in operation ...check and see when the floor temps are comming up every hour...keep an eye on the supply and return temp gauges ... look for a balance of all three numbers within about 5 F degrees ofsupply and return and 2 To 3 F degrees of room.at the 80 degree room temp.turn the termostat down and open all the other zones, largest one first and keep balancing the zones back down to 70 ¡ã F as you work zone to zone ...some times electric heat is so good it just takes a while to ramp it first...dont whip out the routers and drills just yet.

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

I don't think

you want to make the floor any hotter that 82°, so I would keep the water temperature below 150° if his tube spacing is 12".

Now, if his tubing is at 9" centers, water temperatures should not exceed 140° depending on who's engineering data you're looking at.

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