Drilled through tubing in Gypsum

mellow_3

not good! I would make a pex conection. I would use an expantion type, once it is sealed it good for life. I thought tape eats the tubing, someone told me this. I don't think tape would hold psi and if not why use it? the cement will not plug a hole why sould tape? The pex conections work perfecttry it.

Joe F

Wirsbo said wrap it in duct tape

I didn't like that answer much, but if that is what the pro's do, so be it. I also have some gypsum mix on the way to repair the pour. If I didn't have gypsum available or it doesn't show up in time, what alternatives do I have for patching the gypcrete that I have to chip away?

And do I just use a hammer and chisel?

Plastic ProPEX or brass splice?

Thanks again for you help.

hr

I'll bet

they meant for you to wrap the splice coupling with tape. Although if the splice is a plastic fitting, I'm not sure the tape would be needed.

Think I would use a brass splice, I'm not sure Propex fittings are for hydronic applications??

Carefully chop with a hammer and blunt chisel. Gyp breaks easily, you really do not need a sharp edged tool.

Maybe the gyp guys will "pipe" in, but there are plenty of concrete patch products available, at lumber or Home Centers.

hot rod

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Mark Eatherton1

Heat shrink....

My guys carry 1-1/4" heat shrink. Put it onto pipe before effecting repair. Do repair (brass, plastic, duct tape whatever...) then move heat shrink over the repair and brush with the cool part of the torch. VIOLA sealed repair.

Don't forget to get a triangulation on the repair and mark it on the "as built" blue prints in case of future needed access.

BTW, just kidding about the duct tape.

ME

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Dingo

heh....

Did a double take on the "duct tape", Mark

Weezbo

let the gypcrete dry if you havent fixed it yet.

then go over5 to the spot that was leakind and drill a hole right through the gypcrete near the break. the stuff is still really damp an d doesnt amount to much more than digging up some sand .you can get a dash of cement and sand and patch the thing when your done . dont worry.next find the break scratch back about 8 10 inches 4 or 5 in both directions along the tubing...whip out the weezbo sizzisors and chop 3 inches awa on both sides of the break...get another chunk of he pex pump a couple on it on each end .from the previous cuts ,pump the couple onto the stubby sticking out, leave it alone for a while, get a piece of foam packing or sill sealer or thin blue floating floor padding put a couple pieces of tape on it to wrap the pipe lay it in the groove you dug out and then pump up the other stubby Jamm the piece on to the couple and just leave it alone a while... next crank the pressure up to 30 psi on the compressor and just let it be a few min...if it is staying steady jack the pressure up to 60 psi.and let it be...take some soap and water and test the couples and fittings like you would a gas fitting...no leaks? wrap the taped foam around the pipe pour cement and sand into the hole leave it alone ...mark it on the blue prints. not that it would ever leak however its just good to know there are a few fittings in the field someone cannot divine the location thereof.:) let every thing just be for the next 28n days done deal put whatever covering over the floor you previously planned and dont worry. another way is to run down stairs and dig a hole up from beneath...essentially the same basic plan except this time the tubing must be longer and the fittings are made up under the floor the floor hole sealed then the cement, slu ,whatever poured in and same same ...duct tape nah electric tape maybe shrink fit yah aluminum foil sillsealer and then tape:) yup yup yup yup yup

Weezbo

i use pls fittings all the time ....

there isnt much to deteriorate:)they are fine use as mini headers for loops too:) brass is fine too. however the coupling type with the wrench on formation i am not too keen on and wouldnt use them dont even buy any.

hr

Everything weezer said,

but if it is only a nail hole, one coupling should work. Cut just across the nail hole, you may need to remove a little for coupling length, then lift the tube and insert the coupler.

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Kal Row

zurn makes the perfect splice for that -

according to them in extensive tests – it never broke at the splice, I has up to 800 psi tensile strength , in fact, they recommend using it up front, when you lay the pex, instead of always starting with a new roll, just splice and continue – so confident, are they in their splice, and, the cv loss of the splice, is equal to only 6ft of pex – not a lot, by pex standards, though personally, I would slide heat shrink tube over it, put some silicone sealer at each end of the shrink tube, and then shrink it, to guarantee that no outside corrosive elements, gets to the brass splice or crimp ring, it’s the best way to go for repair, and might not be such a bad idea for up front installs.

ps: the total diameter of the splice is such, that it would fit into pre-formed pex-heat-plates, or aluminized sub floor, without much a-do – seen it first hand at a seminar Zurn gave for a bunch of local supply houses in Brooklyn ny – I must say - I liked what I saw!! – Zurn had the advantage of entering the field late – so they could see what was really needed and what others did wrong


http://www.zurn.com/operations/pexrh/pdfs/techbulletin/ZNPA1202.pdf

hr

Sounds like the splice in question

is inside in a gypcrete application. Would a tightly sealed shrink cover really be needed. Can't see the gyp attacking a brass fitting, and if it's wet around the splice you've got bigger problems.

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