P/S question - replace A with B ?

Steve_45

Can I use this heat trap to eliminate the return side
check valves? (replace A layout with B)

hr

Thge deeper the better

I'd run it down to the floor, if possible. Just cost ya some more tube.

I did a ceiling to floor 7' drop on a chronic over heating zone once. It STILL trickled enough to over heat over the course of a week. Big improvement, but I went back with a spring check.

PAP tube is great for making those drops, a nice smooth fitting free loop. Easy to insulate with un-slit foam pipe insulation, too.

hot rod

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Nron_9

thermal loop

john Seg says a thermal trap must be atleast 18" deep

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

Looks fine

on paper, but when you install it in the boiler room, it takes up a lot of space.

I did it once; simple check valve works better for me.

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DaveGateway

P/S

Hi Steve,

I have missed some of the previous posts, so I'm not quite up to speed on your control design.
Are your 4 zone pumps going to run continuously in heating season? Do you have 1 or 4 thermostats? Have you read-up on the B&G ThermoFlow Control valves?

1) I have read that if you insulate a heat trap, that it will stop working as desired.

2) Is a Taco 007 enough pump for your primary loop?
i.e. A Munchkin M140 would require a 0010 pumping into the boiler.

3) Couldn't your crossovers be 3/4"?

4) Whats the purpose of the end crossover?

Good Luck BP

Steve_46

Bill,
Thanks for the interest. Any hints, corrections will be greatly appreciated.
I have missed some of the previous posts, so I'm not quite up to speed on your control design. Are your 4 zone pumps going to run continuously in heating season?
++ No, Only when area calls for heat.
Do you have 1 or 4 thermostats?
++ There will be 4 (2 downstairs apartment, 2 upstairs apartment)
Have you read-up on the B&G ThermoFlow Control valves?
++ Only what I have found on the web. Must of which relates to sales and general purpose. I’m using them based on a suggestion to have flow control on the secondarys.
1) I have read that if you insulate a heat trap, that it will stop working as desired.

++ I hadn’t planed on insulating the heat traps or an other pipes in the basement to help keep the basement a little warmer.
2) Is a Taco 007 enough pump for your primary loop? i.e. A Munchkin M140 would require a 0010 pumping into the boiler.
++ Based on info from the wall on specs I believe so.
3) Couldn't your crossovers be 3/4"?

++ Based on the what I have read as well as suggestions from the wall the closely spaced tees should reduce the secondary side by one size. Based on that I changed from ¾ to 1 inch crossovers.
4) Whats the purpose of the end crossover?

++ For a future addition. Just to make it easier later.
Good Luck BP

Kal Row

actually, the end crossover should be in the beginning,

Should be 1-1/4, and should have a thermostatic or electric control valve on it to bypass the system until the boiler temp is above 140 - unless you are using a condensing boiler.

if the head traps are 18" long they should be fine unless the return pipe is un-insinuated and in so cold a wall, that the dropping cooler water can gather enough speed to loop right through, being that you have a pump per-zone and restrictions aren’t a problem – I would go with spring checks they are $14.11 in sweat @ http://www.plumbingsupply.com/valves.html
third section down on the page - titled "Bronze Spring Check Valves:"

the “thermometers” in your drawing – I would make them watts DPTG3’s temp and pressure tricators – so you can get delta t and delta p – they also come with ½ spring loaded o-ring shutoff – so you can unscrew them without draining the system

I would also use a pair of flanges on the return side after the valve to that you can disconnect for service – and make all the devices over there IPS instead of sweat, you can even use a B&G Check-Trol for one half of the flange pair which comes with a built-in spring check. Flanges leak less than unions and provide electric isolation as well, if you use fiber washers for the bolts and nuts