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steam riser baffel need and design
Dan_2
Member Posts: 10
my steam boiler is undergoing internal repairs such as all new fire tubes. it is 30 years old and operates at low psi ( 0-5 ) to heat a building. the old baffle was attached on two sides to the shell with plate metal. the baffle plate itself was quite large and extended beyond the 6" riser another 6" in all directions. this old baffle was in bad shape so it was trashed. my contractor wants to attach a piece of U channel directly to the bottom of the 6" riser as a new baffle. he says this is what he finds in boilers today. the inspector was out to check a fit up and he said this new baffle would be fine because of our low operating pressure. could you experts give me some thoughts so I can make sure this job is done right? thankyou very much in advance. Dan
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Comments
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The dilemma is...
The boiler manufacturer probably installed the baffle to prevent water droplets from being caught up in the steam outlet pipe - assuming the boiler would be placed in an application where much more than the "typical" 2 # used in plain old steam heating system might be found.
One cannot be sure of this unless the manufacturer is still in biz and can be asked directly?
To be safe, return it to as close as possible to OEM design by whatever means you like. The inspector will sort of be the ultimate authority on this. If you don't comply with his designs, he ain't gonna insure it!
We have found that using fire tube boilers for simple heating - and assuming the riser, header, system riser and mains are all sized properly - and the pressure l;eft between 1 and 2 psi, that baffles do not help (nor hinder) operation.
Anything that helps steam stay "dry" is a plus. My main and only concern is the stay rod connections that will likely be used to "locate" the baffle between the steam riser outlet - and the water surface below. Should the stay rods rot or rust out - would the steam chest steam flow be whacked out by some mis-aligned metal baffle plate changing position by rotted out stay rod supports - and the resulting drooping or fallen baffle?
Hopefully, the welder will use stout stay rods and consider the accelerated rusting typically associated with steam chest boiler regions?
Let us know how it goes.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
Baffles and steam
The boiler manufacturer probably installed the baffle to prevent water droplets from being caught up in the steam outlet pipe - assuming the boiler would be placed in an application where much more than the "typical" 2p.s.i. used in plain old steam heating system might be found.
One cannot be sure of this unless the manufacturer is still in biz and can be asked directly?
To be safe, return it to as close as possible to OEM design by whatever means you like. The inspector will sort of be the ultimate authority on this. If you don't comply with his designs, he ain't gonna insure it!
We have found that using fire tube boilers for simple heating - and assuming the riser, header, system riser and mains are all sized properly - and the pressure left between 1 and 2 psi, that baffles do not help (nor hinder) operation.
Anything that helps steam stay "dry" is a plus. My main and only concern is the stay rod connections that will likely be used to "locate" the baffle between the steam riser outlet - and the water surface below. Should the stay rods rot or rust out - would the steam chest steam flow be whacked out by some mis-aligned metal baffle plate changing position by rotted out stay rod supports - and the resulting drooping or fallen baffle?
Hopefully, the welder will use stout stay rods and consider the accelerated rusting typically associated with steam chest boiler regions?
Let us know how it goes.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0
This discussion has been closed.
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