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6006
Bob Bona_4
Member Posts: 2,083
Anybody been having bad or inaccurate ones? Reason I'm asking is because of an issue I'm having with a Buderus LT200 indirect-the tank appears to never "recover" when the dial is set for 140. Being on priority, the heat is held back indefinitely. Of course, customer is annoyed.
Upon initial install, it seemed to take forever on the indirect call, and I knocked the dial down to 100 to get the tank "satisfied". House was vacant at the time, so no big deal.I'm going tomorrow to check out Delta's and the actual tank temps. I was just wondering how others are making out with this aquastat. TIA!
Upon initial install, it seemed to take forever on the indirect call, and I knocked the dial down to 100 to get the tank "satisfied". House was vacant at the time, so no big deal.I'm going tomorrow to check out Delta's and the actual tank temps. I was just wondering how others are making out with this aquastat. TIA!
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Comments
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I've had a few....
Where the tanks were supplied with either 4080B or 6006 controls, and I thought that the well they were placed in wasn't "deep enough" into the tank. (Sorry Bill W.)
I think that the placement of the sensor for the Buderus control (on the front of the tanks, and where it can be a bit more accurrate and easily serviced)is ideal. I imagine that a quality thermister control could be installed into the same location. (we choose to use Goldline SP-30 controls on a majority of our indirect installs, they have an adjustable differential, and seem to be a bit more accurrate). The "short" Honeywell wells don't go far enough into the top rear of the tanks for my liking.Some will overheat, some don't heat enough. Water condition also plays a big factor. I've removed some of the plastic coated wells, and found them completely covered in "insulating goo" that has formed its own life and made them inaccurrate. It really doesn't even matter the make of the tank or control when this occurs. A sensor placed outside/directly on the tank, well insulated would be my choice.(again, in MOST cases!) Good luck! Chris0 -
I hear you JCA
I'm thinking that a horizontal tank and a short well don't make for the best accuracy. I'm taking up another 6006 in the am-the job would have to be 1.5 hrs away..
Indications are that the boiler is making limit, 1" piping, Grunfos Super Brute on Hi. The tank is 20 feet away, but that shouldn't come into play with the issue here..0 -
Bob- maybe a longer control well & some heat conductive paste? ps mardele says hello. jb0 -
Bob,
Just for some protection....Bring a long insertion well, the longest you can find! I try to keep a chromed 3-1/2" one on the truck at all times. They get a bit deeper into the tank. I still think I'd rather a thermistor mounted on the bulbouse front of the tank, with a bit of T-stat wire going to the burner/limit controler.(there is a chase from the front to the rear of the tank there already!) Let us know how you make out with this one. Chris0 -
JB!!!
Welcome to the Wall, man! Still remembering to put those flochecks in backwards? Mardele keeping you in line I hope?0 -
Bob,I came accross a similar situation this winter...
with an L200. If you go to
http://www.buderus.net/literature/Tanks-CB-01.pdf
and look at the charts on the back page, you will see Buderus calls for 17.6 gpm thru the coil, and the coil has a 4.4 ft of head pressure drop. Now if you go to
http://www.us.grundfos.com/web/Download.nsf/Pages/683354CFF1F4C79088256C240056FFBC/$File/L-UP-SL-027.pdf
you will see that at 5 feet of head, your only moving about 14 to 15 GPM with a Super Brute on high speed. So in my case I figured out a 26-64 would be more appropriate, along with 1 1/4" supply and return lines to get the full capacity and quickest recovery. Unfortunatly, I didn't get to do the work, as I was just consulting on this system, but I ran it by our Buderus rep and he said what I had planned was correct.
As far as Honeywell Aquastats, I've only had one 4000 series get out of wack and it was 10 years old.
Hope it helps.
Glenn0 -
Hi Glenn
I'm digging what you are saying about flow, and thanks for the link..
I did my first Buderus indirect w/ 1 1/4 and a 0010, but as time and jobs went by, info keeps coming about stuff. Two calls to the Buderus factory-one last year, and one yesterday, specifically about what they wanted for pump sizing, and tube sizing resulted in the same response each time: a 008 or equivalent, and 1" pipe is sufficient for the LT series tanks. When questioned about the 0010, they said overkill. Fine by me:)
Took a new 4006 up there today and replaced the 6006 I had on there (NOS). Looks like that was the culprit. Either the differential was way out of whack or the control itself was, because the new 4006 responded beautifully. Boiler made tank temp, then shut off.
I think I got it!0 -
Glad to here that, Bob.
Glad it was that simple. Just wanted to throw my personal experience out there for ya. I'll admit tho the pump in my case was a 15-42 so it was running about 12 gpm with a 18 gpm requirement, so your LT200 is a lot closer than mine was.0 -
your
info has been duly noted and filed Glenn:) I love hearing about real life scenarios and what worked for others!0 -
Hi Chris & Bob!
We make all kinds of wells, were these installed by Buderus or did you get them at a distributor and install them yourself? As for the L6006 being way off, was it installed by Buderus or was it field installed? I'm not trying to be evasive, but it makes a difference in whose cage I rattle if the controls are having a problem. Bob, can you get me the full part number & date code? Thanks.0 -
I'll get
back to you Bill.. gotta get the control for the info!0
This discussion has been closed.
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