Beckett Noise Issue, Pls Help

Omega Man

Hahah, here is the problem I am having. The burner seemed much quieter previously, and serviced it and reinstalled a new 1.10/80B nozzle into the Beck AFG burner. Endcone was a F6, after this was installed, have a very booming start, and alsowhen it shuts off, makes a terrible voosh noise, sounds like its igniting oil left in the air stream, starts to vibrate as ity makes this noise. Very bad sounding noise.

Any advice is appreciated
Thanks
Chris

John@Reliable_9

Did you try..............

a different nozzle? just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. John@Reliable

Alan_6

burner noise

It is really hard to judge the way the flame looks in a utica. The flame is so hot and close to the front. A Delevan W-semi solid nozzle may help.

john_35

don't blame the pump

It's not likely the pump is gone bad, unless there's other issues like water in the fuel(most common pump killer). It sounds like you have a leak in the drawer assembly which could be due to a loose nozzle. It's not unheard of for a tech to neglect to snug it up(especially if the homeowner, no offense, is distracting him with questions and such). Also could be a crack in the nozzle adapter or a worn seat on same. I believe G Lanthier sells a tool to restore the smooth collar on the adapter where the nozzle butts up against it. Try www.firedragon.com (I think that's his website.) If the nozzle was changed with only one wrench the adapter could just be loose too. There is a three-quarter hex on the lower end of the adapter so an opposing force can be applied when turning the nozzle in or out. If the tech didn't "back himself up" this way it may be that the adapter turned when the nozzle was tightened or loosened. The fact that the noise got worse when you turned up the pressure is an indication oil is not in a tight finely atomized pattern. Could just be the nozzle like John@Reliable said too. Finally I don't think you ought to be trying to fix this yourself. Haven't you ever heard of a callback? You should have your service company back out there taking care of this if it's related to a maintenance visit. Repairing and adjusting an oil-fired boiler is NOT a do-it-yourself project. You could get yourself in hot water (pun intended) to say the least!

Big Ed

Let's Rumble...

First ......... the "Z" adjustment ? I assumed you have already done this during the end cone replacement

First thought......Is this a two pipe oil line set up you may have a air leak. Air mixed in the oil flow will give you the same symptoms.....

joe_14

i would try


a 85x 80a nozzle where as you have increased the pump psi. to 120. the utica boiler has a small and short combustion area. hope this helps


joe.g.

Omega Man

Definitely sounds like some great items to try. Z measurement is on, electrodes are spaced correctly, could be air as you said getting in, it is a one pipe setup. Any other placs where it could get in, maybe the seat for the nozzle is shot, it didn't seem bad, but could be worth a second check.

Dave Mayer -3 Sons Heating

Horses not Zebras

I am no genious or "guru" but as I teach my techs, I am a service manager, "when in Arizona and you hear hoof beats think horses not zebras". In other words...the unit was working fine before you made adjustments and after you left it does not. The boiler has no personal vandeta against you and does not want to run poorly. Go to the Beckett book the boiler is factory set with a Beckett AFG, pump @140, 23/4 static disc, F6 head, 1.25 x 80 B nozzle. My suggestion is go back to basics. Ask questions about what you touched. Go back to factory specs, change the head back, up the pump pressure to a steady 140p.s.i, re-check the Z dimension with a Beckett gauge. If any change I would also go to a Delavan W nozzle. 1.10 X 80 W works great. Delavan B nozzles are rumbly and loud. Make sure the chamber is in good shape and flue passages are clean. Not a genious am I, I just know what I know. Good Luck
Dave Mayer Sr.

Weezbo

Oh Ho !.....

now that i read this post.... and find that a new variable has been added....... ehhhmmm... for get what i said about 10 10 ....if you begin on the campaign to jack up fuel pressures move the electrodes ,the draw assembly,air adjustment well now thats a completely new set of variables.

bob_32

another thing to check

is the draft regulator.put everything back to norm and make sure it is not a draft problem.i have had that happen before if not try the w nozzle they can be very affective.u have to remember one simple rule the k.i.s.s rule.keep it simple stupid.a co worker once said that to me a wise man i should say many years in business.never over analize look for the obvious first.

steve_38

rumbling ?

in your question you said when you got on the phone with help, you changed the endcone to an F4 - not good #1 with a 1.10 nozzle. If i was you, i would not touch the burner call up a professional Oil Burner Mechanic and have them look at it. And all burners are factory set. the pump pressure you said was set at 120 - 130 PSI. hmmm beckett burners are set a 100 PSI and the Newer Beckett AF-2 and AFG burner are set at 140 - 150 PSI. so abviously the pump pressure has been messed with??? for what reason don't know??? the answers you will get for the question you post on the wall, will be guesses for answers not the actuall answer and why cause we are not there to really see the problem. I suggest you don't look for answers for this specific problem that you want to fix. something like this needs an oil burner tech. so the only true answer to your question is to pull out your wallet and call up the oil burner company and pay them to fix the problem... i'm sure if i had my hands on that burner i could fix it in a matter of 30 minites. i'm hope your problem gets solved by an oil burner tech...