PEX in mud

DaveGateway

What is the best method holding PEX in position during the concrete placement, 2" over the blueboard?
No wire mesh will be used, we are using concrete with the fiberglass in it.
Thanks Bill Patrick

Dan Peel

wire mesh

Wire mesh will be your best method - even if you don't need it for structural. Next to that you can choose from an wide array of barbed plastic staples, scew in clips, extruded rails with openings for tubing and a variety of plastic sheets with raised knobs to thread the tubing around. Pre grooved foam board is also out there. Your choice, the conrete won't care.......Dan

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Weezbo

Dan Peel!

talk to me about the plastic sheets with the raised Knobs in them...i been here there and every where trying to get some sorta feed back on some body with experience with the stuff ... i am All Ears..Well...not all ears

hr

Bend over

and lift it up!

Without mesh or rebar, how will you keep it spaced and from floating?

These are continous strip bar chairs, with runners. This is what I use under mesh or rebar.

I got serious sticker shock on my last order, however. Gone up about 40% from a month ago. Yikes!

hot rod

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hr

Weezbo

this product has been around for years. www.beaverplastics.com

hot rod

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Dan Peel

Bekotec

This is one such product. http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectione/overview-e/section-e.html

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Weezbo

Hot rod , dan peel...

i too am a bit of an enthusi ast as it were ive tried various rebar chairs wire mesh rebar "Stradgies" and totally belive in foam :)heres the deal ok i guess i gotta have some kinda deal to trade...i am experience lousy...you name it i musta done it seen it fixed it or found some *&*! 2 @#% way to make it work...thas it thats all i goot ta trade now all i need is 140 years experience with this beckotec jazz in say 15 min...:))) i only wish to use it on new homes and only on the deck with gypcrete or ardek the price is not the main ticket in my mind,i am a quality freak. though the homes are sorta spec homes they all have radiant garage slabs,some have SOG ,and i always sell a baseboard loop through the master bedroom under a window for quick response,the master bedrooms bath always gets a healty dosage of radiant,the second floor levels gets a base board system so it can hurry heat into the area in cold weather in case of an extended down time ,the garage slab is seperated from the boilers control and the boilers electrical system entirely...it is a stand alone system as i would like to call it. yet if the building runs out of oil it will continue to circulate water until death:)...now i also do work that is not a matter of the lowest price of standard quality every year, not wanting to babble for hours the field work with this beckotec i need to hear about..like i say 140 years in 15 min or less:))) do you find it quicker slower than staple down,is there alot of gidgets and doodads that are incumbent to drag around with you to put it together?have you had wool carpets over laying these pours? is the weight factor helpful to quicker ramp times? as the radiator is much lighter thermal mass,does it lend well to redistributing the heat from a high solar gain area to low solar or basement Sog via a seperate "summer"zone by pass(BY Passing The Boiler and long looping the cold loop) to and from the cooler loop?have you found it efficent to store heat from one of these floor panels to a heat sink for evening or night use in summer months? have you tried any hrv ,van ee life breath with these panels? i like to use perimiter spacings and sliding glass doors spacings and window spacings a bitt different than the books and programs dictate,i 'd also like to try some of this stuff where some weight, say, a piano might be looming heavily above it....does the stuff ever colapse in places? does it allow for faster curing times of the magic mixture:) does the gypcrete hace to be poured Thicker than 1 1/2" ? any help at all...