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Radiant heated timber frame, 6 years later

hr
hr Member Posts: 6,106
how these timbers cracked when they dried. In some outside wall areas expanding foam and 1/4 round moulding had to be added to stop drafts.

I have seen similar cracks in log homes, also. This home does have a central humidifier.

The great room has yellow pine flooring. It ranges from 10 to a whooping 14" wide. Butt jointed, no T&G. It opens about 3/16" on some seams. Homeowners were aware and are fine with the look. The plywood subfloor was painted black in anticipation of gaps, to help hide the openess.

The entire home is wood inside. No sheetrock was used anywhere. All the wood was milled on the job to create the T&G wall coverings. 8 species of wood harvested from the owners ranch in Arkansas.

All floors, except the master bath are wood. Brick pavers on a slab for the entry.

This job used Warmboard, ThermoFin transfer plates, and some slabs.

The living room was a challange for radiant. It has Onix staple up on 4- 6" centers, 3 VRV floor mounted convectors on a second stage, and FA for additional back up. Rarely needed, but it handles the cooling.

They finally, this winter closed the fireplace dampers during cold months and droped the LP bill by about $200.00!

A two stage Lochinvar sealed combustion sits a top a 32 gallon indirect, acting as a buffer and 180° DHW, whick gets mixed to 130° via a Sparco. Even with a two man jetted tub, used almost every night, they have never run short of DHW. Of course the Loch is 250,000 input. Nothing like sheer HP to generate DHW. Takes about 7 minutes to satisify the DHW call, from cold start :)

Flowers are blooming in Missouri at this home on the shore of Table Rock Lake :)

hot rod

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Comments

  • Mike Kraft_2
    Mike Kraft_2 Member Posts: 398
    Man...............

    Your panels have changed over the years:)..........I have to give you credit hot rod.Your tools,workmanship and attitude have been a motivater and inspiration for what I buy and install.The sense you have made over the years is as obvious and as laid back as you:)Major suck up eh.......but I mean it.

    And you gotta love the wood............especially the pine!

    cheese
  • Nron_9
    Nron_9 Member Posts: 237
    Timber frame humidity

    You mentioned that the home had a humidifier most log homes requirer higher humidity than you get from a general drip type humidifier talk to the guys that build log homes they say about 50% humidity for the first few years to allow the wood to cure , most log homes will shrink about and 1.5-3 in the first 5 years and shoud be construted to allow for shrinkage , we usally recmend steam genereated humdifiers they cost more but will protect the investment
  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,884
    Wow

    That is some wood work !!

    Most of the floors don't look that bad to me, you have to expect some movement. O.K. the beam crack would make me a little nervous :0.

    Can't help thinking how that panel would look with a curvo. Like Mike says, we've all grown.

    Thanks for all the photos HR.

    Scott

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