staple up spacing

enough to be dangerous

In my house the floor joists are spaced 8" to 10" on centre. This seems rather close. Every instruction on staple up hydronic radiant floor says to put a loop of pipe in every joist space. Is this not excessive for such a narrow joist space? It would result in 4" pipe spacing. Since I will use aluminum heat spreaders I assume that there is no advantage to such a close pipe spacing
(other than perhaps installation simplicity).

hr

The best answer

would be, it depends. did you do a heat loss calc? Generally this, with a design, will spell out how much tube is needed for a given load in a given space. Then the loop lengths can be calculated into the room square footages. Most design software will spell out the spacing, loop lengths, and required supply temperatures. Some will also spell out pump spec (gpm and pressure drop)for zone by zone calcs. You need to know this info for a troublefree system!

Depending on the room load it can vary from 6- 12" on centers. The main goal is to get all the tube into the space that the design calls for If the design calls for 2- 250 foot loops, best get all that in the space.

Of course it never hurts to have too much tube in a space as long as the loop length is within reason.

Generally transfer plate jobs end up with two runs per 16" joist bay or 8" on center.

That is an odd on center joist spacing?? You may be fine with one tube per 8" joist bay, but check the numbers. Nothing worse then an under heated space when it gets cold outside.

hot rod

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Weezbo

pasquale...

there are other options to radiant Floor heat.... perimiter heating using a very flat nuveau flat track system exists it fits like base board heat around the perimiters of rooms so you dont have to trim it out with carpentry trim materials...i have considered using it here in alaska. basically two tubes are snaped in the wall support you make some connections clip the designer cap over it done deal,comes in a variety of colours. can also be used vertically...you can also stack these to increase the radiant in a room ,...it comes in up to 28 foot lengths. floor heat though was your thought... here is a thought spacing is a flexable kinda deal to some extent,the amount of tubing is some what flexable too the more pipe you use the happier it makes the suppliers . the plates you are into using are sorta going to have some definitive influence on the out come of your job,getting the materials to get into very narrow areas and loop requires some skill,and a heat gun might be a tool to help in the installation. there are options here also, 3/8" tubing is alot easier to "Run" however the lengths must be kept say at 150 ' or so just as 1/2" maybe 250 300ish is a good length ,try to bring the tails all together in some central location to make it easier to use smaller tubing,once you have the amount of tubing you need make sure its all divided equally and try to keep allthe lengths the same.and if you do a layout of the tubing first you will have a plan the best thing about a plan is you can always change IT with out one it can get to be a hassel in a hurry. more pipe in a bay than you Need is seldom a hassel, less, now,.. that can be. there are lots of things to consider. the tubing "Grows" the more heat that is pumped into it. last month it was way cold here i had the home owner lay in the 6 250 foot runs and drag them to the 3/4" supply and return headers. there are three zones each of 500 ' today i am driving the heating loops UP in temp.now they know why i didnt have them put lots of talon clamps and aluminum spacer plates in just yet.we installed it in 30 degree weather..once the pipe sees 100 degree water ...it grows! lots! after doing this i will have driven lots of the out gassing of the new materials out of the house and aired it out .then i will drop the temp down to like 70 and have them install the plates.squeakers and clamps,run the heat up a bit again let it cool down to 65 ish and have them put the insulation.this is on 8" centers...1/2 250 foot runs ,2 per zone,3/4" supply and return headers.all header runs are exactly the same length ..though the zones are different rooms all the lengths are the same.i lose the header lengths in the floor in a loop or two for closer zones,it doesnt hurt a thing.and it is easier to control.

Justin Gavin

Do you have a source for that?

I have been looking for a source for that Radiant Baseboard. Do you know any manf.

Thanks,

Justin

Radiant Wizard

Baseboard

Runtle and Myson have it.

Dave H_2

RadiantPanel

is what you are looking for.

1" thick x 5" tall. Comes in a veriety of lenghts.

www.hydronicalternatives.com

Dave H.

enough to be dangerous

thanks

thanks a lot.
this is one of the best replies I have ever seen.
lots of info and new ideas (new to me anyways).
I like the baseboards.

pasquale

Nron_9

baseboard

this baseboard is also made for 1/2 pex systems is slightly larger output about 450 btus per ft at 180 F, Resom is the company that makes it here in canada