Whats included in your hydronic service/maintenance?

kevin_5

I've talked to Paul Pollets for example at wetstock III, but I wasn't sharp enough to ask him what all they do when they have maintenance agreements for hydronic systems. Could someone please give me a list of what all you do/check and how often? Expansion tank pressure, Water ph, glycol levels, fuel pressures, pressure reliefs, LWCO, flow switch,???? What else?
I would like to get something set up for my customers. I believe in preventive maintenance, but sad to say, up to now I've been operating on "if it aint broke don't fix it." A comprehensive check-list would be great, as well as any other advice.Thanks in advance guys. Kevin

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George_10

We suggest check treatment levels

For our clients that are doing service deals and are using our Rhomar 922, treatment, we suggest making sure it is at the correct level. If it is then its ok, if not a little is added to bring it back up to snuff.

hr

Combustion analyzer

would be a good idea. Mine has a print out I leave one and keep one.

Copper tube boilers need a good looking into the HX, especially if you see signs of flame roll out.

If you pop a relief to check it, make sure you have a replacement. They tend to drip after a relief, often times.

Operate every zone to make sure ZV, relays and pumps start and stop.

Not a bad idea to check anticipators. Quite often they are not set correctly.

Backflow preventors might need a check up. In some areas it is required by code, to have a licensed backflow inspector check them.

hot rod





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Unknown

Does anyone include

pulling the relief valve out totally in their agreements ? We see this alot . The relief valve still opened and shut off , if you can believe it .

J.C.A._3

Combustion test without a doubt!

CO check for the flue, and surrounding area.Next, pull the flue and check the chimney, if used. (Chimneys' SHOULD SUCK!If 20 years of crap has fallen down them, sometimes they don't)

I tend to pull the gas train,if need be, and clean/clear all burner tubes. Brush and vacuum the area under the tubes while they're all out, and take a peak down the flue connector . If I see any "products of incomplete combustion" on the boiler passages,off comes the top. I brush down the passages and remove the effluent while the burner tubes are still out.

I brush the burner tubes inside and out before replacing them, and check to make sure that any refractories being used in the burner area are in shape to handle the flame.(for the record....Just did one last week that had fallen right onto the pilot assembly, and knocked the fire out. Found a "fist sized" hole in the , so called, boiler support. Steel support for a cast iron HX, failing on the left side....OOOPS!}.

With furnasties, air filter checks, fan motor oiling and a general cleanout of the fan compartment is always a good idea.

Incoming gas pressure is then tested.Outlet pressure test follows in most cases.(some are easy, some are damn near impossible to check).

Finish with a 2nd combustion test and cleanup of the general area.

I'm sure I missed a bunch of small steps in between but I can honestly say that a "Good service" for many appliances will take a lot longer than most will expect.(in my case, at least a couple hours) Giving a "halfassed" service away to gain a customer seems to me to be a bit misleading. You could end up on the receiving end of a "pain there", or worse yet....a lawsuit. Like Taco says, Do it once, do it right. Chris

Weezbo

Ropski...

Two years ago maybe three a bock or some similar oilfired water haeter was Plugged and it shot out of a building like a rocket and snuffed some human beings life light. that is positively amongst the 'Dont even Think about it!' HO are GD scarry at times. so do you want to play Guess how many times everyone there has pushed the reset button? a vile thing can happen there also.10"barometric IMPREGNATED in the wall! service work is not without its difugalties...

jim sokolovic

Very good advice, Chris...

Check those chimneys!

S Ebels

Our basic System Check as follows:

Combustion test and basic burner service/tune

Pull the flue pipe and inspect

Check barometric operation if installed

Check PH

Test LWCO

Test pressure relief

Visually inspect and amp check circs

Test operating and secondary high limit

inspect and clean burner (oil or gas)

Check heat emitters (BB/rads-dust etc.)

Test high limit on radiant floor if installed

Visually check for leaks in piping and/or valves & fittings

Check thermostat or other zone control sensors


For this we charge $125 to $150 depending on distance and travel time plus mileage

Any problems are noted and explained to the customer. A price for needed maintenance and repairs is quoted if they wish.

Maine Ken

How do you test the pressure relief valve?

S Ebels

Relief valve test

With the boiler off and cooled down, manually open feedwater valve and observe the pressure that it pops at. You'd be amazed at how many are defective.

jim sokolovic

Smoke test or not?

I spent some time with the technician doing the tuneup on my mother-in-laws old boiler last night. I thought he was very thorough, and told him that, until it came time to do the smoke test. He says his eyes tell him more than any instrument can, and got P.O.ed when I asked him to do it "just to make me happy". So he pulls a 6 stroke proclaimed "zero" smoke, cursing the "factory guy" as he does so, and takes off.

I'll admit, the flame looks good - but I'll be back there tonight with a combustion analyzer and smoke gun anyway.

Did someone tell me recently that complete and competent testing of fuel burning equipment is "closer than I know"?

Maine Ken

I think I would be replacing many many valves that way!!!! Rarely do they reseat after popping in my area.