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Pressuretrol problems

Dominic_2
Dominic_2 Member Posts: 8
in THE MAIN WALL
I have a Honeywell Pressuretrol on a Utica PEG 150C. Cut-in/out are set to 0.5/1.5 (differential of a little over 1).

The boiler is cutting out at 4 and cutting in at 3.

I've checked the line to the pressure gauge, it is clear (I cleaned a lot of gunk out 2 days ago). The pigtail was replaced yesterday (the old one snapped off while I was trying to get it out). This appears to be a mechanical issue with the Pressuretrol. Should I:

* ignore it and eat the gas bill

* repair it (how? is there a spring that needs tightening?)

* replace it?

A few weeks ago, while cranking up the pressure for blowing down, I accidentally wound the wrong way and the nut used to regulate the level slipped off the spring. But it was easy to reattach and wind back down again, I can't imagine this caused the problem. Just checking.

Thanks for any help

Comments

  • Big Ed
    Big Ed Member Posts: 1,117
    Don't fool around with limit controls

    Never take a chance with any limit control..Replace the control.And check it after the replacement.........If you want to improve , you will need to spend the extra buck for a vaporstat . This control is within the range where you should be running....
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    pressure trol

    Install a Honeywell 408A1157 pressuretrol.

    You will be able to operate the boiler from 6OZ to 4 PSI and st a differential as low as 2OZ.


    Jake
  • Ken_8
    Ken_8 Member Posts: 1,640
    Jake's right!

    If you deal with a Honeywell Authorized wholesaler, are in the trade and have good creidt, that vaporstat, the Honeywell 408A1157 pressuretrol should only run you about $114.

    Worth every penney!

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • David Efflandt
    David Efflandt Member Posts: 152
    Is gauge accurate?

    If your gauge line had been gunked up, are you sure your gauge is accurate. Mine had a snubber that was totally blocked (just reading trapped hot air pressure), but when removed from snubber would not even go down to its 2 psi minimum stop. I replaced it with a metal pressure/vacuum gauge so I can watch it come up off of zero (it never gets up to 2 psi minimum of most pressure gauges).
  • Dominic_3
    Dominic_3 Member Posts: 1
    I am now the proud owner of a vaporstat...

    ...thanks you convinced me to make the jump, got it new surplus for $104....will install this weekend....will also check the pressure valve as suggested....just have to clean out the clogged up drain-off valve and figure out why the boiler is flooding while turned off....oy....
  • Dominic_2
    Dominic_2 Member Posts: 8
    408A 1157 vs 408B 1131

    Stupid question: what is the difference between these? I got the latter as a "vaporstat" but this thread recommended the former....before I open the box....
  • scrook_2
    scrook_2 Member Posts: 610
    L408A not L408B...

    The L408B MAKES on pressure rise, the L408A BREAKS on pressure rise. With the B suffix the burner should never come on -- it would be used to start a fan or other equipment when steam pressure appeared on a line.

    There are 0-1 psi and 0-4 psi models of the L408 too and there is the L608A that has both a break and a make contacts.

    See:
    http://hbctechlit.honeywell.com/techlit/PDF/60-0000s/60-2158.pdf
  • Dominic_2
    Dominic_2 Member Posts: 8
    Blush

    As always, thanks for the help, this board is great....
This discussion has been closed.

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