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Weird Honeywell zone valve / actuator mismatch ... ?
Chapman Flack
Member Posts: 10
Was over looking at my friends' baseboard system again. The low-output problem turned out to be less involved than I'd thought, but we uncovered an unrelated problem: zone 3 won't shut off even when the thermostat is satisfied.
The system has one circ pump and three zone valves. The valves are Honeywell with 24vac motorized actuators; they say V8043E. The misbehaving one, zone 3, is obviously newer and shinier than the other two; it's been replaced some time. It says V8043E and also says 8840 on the other end. The valve was open, water was flowing, the pipe was plenty hot. I unhooked the wires at the valve to make sure it had no power, and it didn't close. Nothing even budged. (The two other zone valves made perfect working examples to compare to.)
When I took the actuator off the valve, the actuator by itself moves smoothly. The valve by itself is easy to turn. I can spin it from full on to full off between thumb and forefinger, and hear and feel the water start and stop.
No, the problem is only when you put the actuator ON the valve. It FITS, it just doesn't fit RIGHT. The valve shaft sticking up has two flats, and the socket in the actuator is the same way, so they only line up one way. But ... they DISAGREE by about 90 degrees.
The valve stem in the pipe has to be turned almost full ON before it will mate with the actuator in the OFF position. So when the actuator's off, the valve's still almost wide open. And when the actuator wants ON, it can't go far enough to make the end switch, 'cause the valve doesn't have that much farther to go.
I thought about trying to mount the whole actuator turned 90 degrees, but the shaft hole is off-center so there's only one mounting choice. I can think of two possibilities: either there's some way the valve itself could have been installed wrong and it'll mean draining the system and taking the valve out to reposition it ... or there are different models of actuator with subtle differences in shaft position, and this is the wrong one for this valve.
Has anybody seen an issue like this? If it's a matter of different actuators, how can we be sure to order the right one?
-Chap
The system has one circ pump and three zone valves. The valves are Honeywell with 24vac motorized actuators; they say V8043E. The misbehaving one, zone 3, is obviously newer and shinier than the other two; it's been replaced some time. It says V8043E and also says 8840 on the other end. The valve was open, water was flowing, the pipe was plenty hot. I unhooked the wires at the valve to make sure it had no power, and it didn't close. Nothing even budged. (The two other zone valves made perfect working examples to compare to.)
When I took the actuator off the valve, the actuator by itself moves smoothly. The valve by itself is easy to turn. I can spin it from full on to full off between thumb and forefinger, and hear and feel the water start and stop.
No, the problem is only when you put the actuator ON the valve. It FITS, it just doesn't fit RIGHT. The valve shaft sticking up has two flats, and the socket in the actuator is the same way, so they only line up one way. But ... they DISAGREE by about 90 degrees.
The valve stem in the pipe has to be turned almost full ON before it will mate with the actuator in the OFF position. So when the actuator's off, the valve's still almost wide open. And when the actuator wants ON, it can't go far enough to make the end switch, 'cause the valve doesn't have that much farther to go.
I thought about trying to mount the whole actuator turned 90 degrees, but the shaft hole is off-center so there's only one mounting choice. I can think of two possibilities: either there's some way the valve itself could have been installed wrong and it'll mean draining the system and taking the valve out to reposition it ... or there are different models of actuator with subtle differences in shaft position, and this is the wrong one for this valve.
Has anybody seen an issue like this? If it's a matter of different actuators, how can we be sure to order the right one?
-Chap
0
Comments
-
not different models
sounds like it just got twisted somehow. Don't take the valve apart, you'll gain nothing but a possible leak. Get a new head or a whole new ZV and scavenge parts from it. The 8840 is the date code, 40th week of 1988.0 -
What
are the last 5 digits of the valve number S/B V8048 - a leyyer then 4 more numbers. Sounds like either a jammed valve of some one used a reverse acting motor.0 -
Stuck zone valve
My bet is that the motor has failed. There is a small screw that holds it on. Remove this and pivot the motor. It will then pull straight off. I'll bet the spring will then slam the valve shut. Your wholesaler should have replacement motors. H'well PN 802360JA.
Good luck,
Jeff
0 -
The motor's ok, but the powerhead gears are stripped.
My friends have ordered a new powerhead for the valve, so we'll see what happens when it arrives. I got to play with a working V4043 in a shop - not quite the right valve, but close enough to see what the shaft angles SHOULD be. Looks like the valve body is ok and the powerhead is the right one -- good news except it doesn't tell me for sure how it got jammed up, or how to make sure the new one doesn't. Fer sure I'll be putting it on really carefully and checking for smooth operation... maybe I'll learn something about what went wrong with the old one.
-Chap0 -
The motor's ok, but the powerhead gears are stripped.
My friends have ordered a new powerhead for the valve, so we'll see what happens when it arrives. I got to play with a working V4043 in a shop - not quite the right valve, but close enough to see what the shaft angles SHOULD be. Looks like the valve body is ok and the old powerhead was the right model -- good news except it doesn't give me an easy answer how it got jammed up, or how to make sure the new one doesn't. Fer sure I'll be putting it on really carefully and checking for smooth operation... maybe I'll learn something about what went wrong with the old one.
-Chap0 -
It happens...
I get that syndrome about once a year. Either that, or the gear strips out to the point that the motor spins and spins and spins and doesn't move anything.
Them Danfoss heat motor valves are looking more promising every day...
To be fair, Honeywell also makes a new cartidge type of heat motor valve, although I hear it is VERY suceptible to trash (solder balls, reaming shavings etc...) in the system. One of these days, someone will make a bullet proof valve, then all the service guys will be sitting around playing cards like the Maytag repair man...
ME0 -
HW old to new
Check the honeywell cat. There is an adapter to go from the old to new actuators.0
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