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Burnham Revolution

Justin Gavin
Justin Gavin Member Posts: 129
in THE MAIN WALL
I was curious if anyone out there has any comments or insight in regards to the boiler revolution.

Likes Dislikes problems

Thanks,

Justin

Comments

  • KBP&H
    KBP&H Member Posts: 48
    Burnham RV

  • KBP&H
    KBP&H Member Posts: 48
    Burnham RV

    I have a Burnham RV 5 Propane in my own house w/ radiant,DHW yank, 4 zone baseboard, Tekmar 261 w/ outside air intake,,,,, Burnham has been very good w/ customer service w/ installation, etc.... This boiler had been in the supply house ( Large NJ Dist) for some extra time since it was LP.... B- updated the boiler to all current production at no cost-- and followed up-- all within 1 wk of posting it on this site---- check old posts-- 1 or 2/ 03.
    The boiler has been great -- very little noise except the relay on the metal jacket. Apparently they had some Taco problems- but none that I have installed are affected.) mine & 3 others).. Oldest installation- 1 yr. RV uses common controls and the VS 3000 can easilly be replaced w/ Tekmar if needed.. This boiler has easily cut propane use by 1/3 over old Weil HE4 ( they had a problem w/ all tubes lighting across) ---- If you install--- note recommended access not clearances as posted elsewhere earlier this year--- Install seperate temp and press gauge above jacket as you cannot read existing in the jacket. Works great w/ Tekmar 261-- outdoor reset but may upgrade to # 371 to stage zones to prevent small firing cycles--- To get the most out of this system -- install outdoor reset as it is made for it and take this boiler for all it will provide for you-- Burnham stands behind it......
  • Justin Gavin
    Justin Gavin Member Posts: 129
    Thanks

    Thanks I have been looking at it for awhile and wanted to get information on it. I am going to Burnham in May for a plant tour hopefully I will learn more than.

    Thanks,

    Justin Gavin
  • ryan
    ryan Member Posts: 23
    revolution

    We have been using the revolution since it first came out. By far the quietest, trouble free boiler I have seen in a long time. I have had one complaint about them, from my workers, they say its too heavy. :)
  • Phil_6
    Phil_6 Member Posts: 210
    I like them

    I've installed six or eight without any problems that I remember. Kinda bulky to get down the stairs, but a real good boiler.Keep the left side clear.

    Phil
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    I've used

    a few. Some problems with the early versions, although Burnham stepped up and made it right! Been purring fine for 5 or so years now.

    Although they run a high block temperature 210° F in order to run that injection mix system and recieve 70° F return temperatures.

    Still, a wise idea to prevent radiant specfic damage.

    I like the shape of the jacketing, much more rigid than a square box :)

    hot rod

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"
  • Randy Tibbits
    Randy Tibbits Member Posts: 91


    I installed three in an old school about 6 years ago. They purred like a kitten and their efficiancy is excellant. However last night two of them decided to give up the ghost on their smart valve. Out here in outer mongolia a smart valve is very hard to come by. Especialy a step opening smart valve. After numerous calls and road trips I relented. It's just gonna have to wiat untill monday. The bright side the one working boiler is keeping a loop temp of 170 degrees and it's warming up this afternoon. The predator hunters that are renting this building for a get together are probably going to whine. It is 65 degrees in there and they are accustomed to sitting in the cold. So they should be plenty warm.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Randy

    I find it kind of peculiar that two Smart Valves would both go at the same time. What is the symtom with these? No pilot ignition, no main valve ignition, both or something else? Let me know and maybe we can get these back in operation before Monday.

    Glenn Stanton

    Burnham Hydronics
  • Randy Tibbits
    Randy Tibbits Member Posts: 91


    I think one of the units went a few months back but nobody realized it. Then the other went. The symtoms, the unit calls for heat,draft induce kicks in, hot surface ignitor glows, then the pilot lights, then the gas control buzzs momentarily, then the pilot stays lit indefinatly. once in a while the main burner came on for a fraction of a second. That only happened on the first try.

    I did change the pilot assemblies and one of the ignitor assembies. I thought maybe there was a dirty ground problem.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Randy

    Before abandoning the gas valves, I would check the voltage coming into the gas valve when there is a call for heat. With the induced fan running, unplug the square plug from the gas valve. You will be looking for a minimum of 22v AC on the Yellow and Blue wires. Anything less may cause the pilot to light but won't bring in the main valve. If you find this to be below 22v, check the 120v to the boiler to see if there is a possible reduction in line voltage. From your description of where this job is located, I would say that this is entirely possible. Also check the incoming gas pressure at the pressure tap on the valve to be sure you are at above 4.5" w.c.(Natural Gas), 11" w.c.(LP Gas) while going through the ignition sequence. Let me know how you make out.

    Glenn
  • Randy Tibbits
    Randy Tibbits Member Posts: 91


    Thanks for the info. I have a solid 24 volts on the square plug going into the gas control. I have a solid 120 coming into the boiler. I didn't check gas pressure. Forgot my manometer in the van, took my truck instead. It's natural gas. Those voltage figures weren't dead on 24 & 120 but when I checked them it was typical, real close. I'll check gas on the next trip.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Smart Valve

    1. Start checking for voltage at the plug in for the pilot should have 20 + volts.

    2. Ohm out the igniter should be 3 to 4 ohms but not more than 10.

    3. Check for 24 volts at 4 prong control plug to Smart Valve. With the T'stat calling you should have 24 twice - as you hold the plug in your hand with the clip to the right from the upper left hand square terminal 24 volts, the terminal to its right (backward "D" shape "0" volts (common), lower right hand terminal 24 volts with controls calling.

    4. Check the transformer out put with a load and no load voltage should not change.

    5. Check the superimposed voltage for your microamp circuit by placing one lead of your meter in the backside of the pilot plug in on the black (microamp wire) a paper clip help by alligator clip on the meter lets you do this, on Generation I SV it should be 24 volts, on Generation II it should be 80+ volts. If less than 24 on Gen I or less then 80 on Gen II replace Samrt Valve.

    6. Microamps for Gen I should be .3 or higher. For Gen II 1.3 or higher. If you do not have adapter to take microamps then follow this - If the igniter is off and the pilot is lit but the main valve will not open then the problem is not microamps but the Smart Valve (main valve). However if the pilot is lit and the igniter will not shut off then the problem is microamp circuit.

    7. There is another check that should be made, it is to check the output of the fourth terminal on the control plug in that is the lower left terminal (it would be for EFT output for a warm air furnace) even though it is not being used on a boiler check with it plugged in from the back side it should be between 15 to 28 volts if it fluctuates or drops below or goes above replace Smart Valve.

    I recommend Smart Valve Flame Measuring Kit Honeywell Part # 395466 and Smart Valve Input voltage Test harness Honeywell Part # 396085.

    An after thought Generation I valves have a knob (on - off) on top, Generation II have an actual switch.

    Watch out for poor connections from plug in to Smart Valve make sure it is secure and not making a poor but intermittent connection.

    Is the Smart Valve Igniter assembly a shielded version or are the wires exposed? If the wires are exposed it can be a problem with cross over voltages getting on the microamp circuit. I beleive Burnham has replaced all of those on Rev boilers.
  • Randy Tibbits
    Randy Tibbits Member Posts: 91


    Thanks for the info,I'm going to print this thread and take it with me. I think these are second generation valves. They have a black on/off switch.


    By the way this problem is not a rant. These boilers have served this building well. The gas usage is so low it's almost unbelievable. This is the only problem I've had with these boilers in six years. On top of that the owners have never called for routine service.
  • KBP&H
    KBP&H Member Posts: 48
    Just a note-- buy a brick

    You can see how valuable this site is---- 24 hr service for the free-- but we should all buy a brick-- I'm going to as soon as I get done painting for my daughter's princess birthday party tomorrow. She's 5----,
  • Randy Tibbits
    Randy Tibbits Member Posts: 91
    A book on smart valves

    Tim, I bought some of your other books. I got to thinking do you have a manual on smart valves? If so how do I get one? thanks
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Oh how I wish

    that all of my children were 5 again! Life was grand back then!

    Glenn
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Smart Valve Manual

    Yes I have a manual and I sent you an e-mail explaining price etc. I hope it will help you out
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