BECKETT BURNER WITH HOT AIR SYSTEM

BOB WILLARD

I have a question about my beckett burner-I just changed the nozzle and notice oil in the tube where the nozzle assy sits..Here is what i do--I dry the area well-Then i fire up the burner for about 7 minutes-I then shut down the burner- flip open the ING TRANSFORMER and watch with a flash light-i then see a very light film of oil moving towards me in the tube--the chamber is still glowing hot while this is going on!What would cause this? I have a OSV valve installed--and it doesnt make a difference what nozzle i stick in there--65 70 75 70.. Nothing is leaking outside the burner--just wondering why this is happening? Thanks so much!! MARK LI

ed wallace

leaking nozzle

are you using the factory speced nozzle for your unit? also might be the threads on the nozzla adapter are streached out

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BOB WILLARD

NOZZLE

Yes i'm using the correct fire rate nozzle..

Mark Wolff

Nozzle seating

Your nozzles aren't seating properly on your fuel tube. Either the nozzles have not been tightened with a nozzle wrench, or your tube has stretched threads. Try a nozzle wrench then replace the tube.

BOB WILLARD

The nozzel tube is NEW

I've checked everything! The nozzel is tight and the tube is new--I even tried 2 other NEW tubes that i have! It seems that when the burner shuts down-The HEAT from the chamber is drawing a few drops of oil from the nozzel and its running back --enough so you can see it when you open the ING transformer and look down..

clammy

oil drip

Check you pump cut off pressure and see if it holds also for gigles check your pump pressure and make sure your nozzle is the correct size all manafactors are very tight on the nozzle size usally there to close to the max firing rate for my tastes.Usally a some drip is normal but does your burner have a oil solinoid or a delay valve usally stops afterdrips dead in there tracts it could also be as other have stated a bad nozzle adpter.DO you have andy carbon build up on the retention ring or turbolator ,just stuff to check for good luck

andy_5

Sounds like the pump cutoff isn't working to me.Or maybe the chimney isn't drawing enough to cool the chamber soon enough drawing the oil out of the nozzle.First thing I would do is check pump pressure and cutout.

techheat_2

I have a question

for the pros on this site who give Homeowners advice about working on their oil burners without any idea if this Homeowner posesses the specialized equipment and knowledge to safely do so. Why do you do so? Given the litigious environment and the potential for property damage and personal injury from an improperly installed or maintained heating system is it worth the risk? Are you really doing the homeowner a service?

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clammy

hoping

Hoping that maybe they will realize that with out the proper tools they will finally call a pro in even though they may have to reach in there pockets to do so it seems every body is cheap i see it all the time ho fiddling with there burners loading them with oil and then call for no heat .That's why america is so great

BOB WILLARD

THE PUMP IS NEW--CHANGED IT A WEEK AGO

Before someone speaks out about how homeowners shouldnt be giving info--Make sure you know what your talking about! I been in the burner service for 27 years--I'm here asking advice--I never saw a problem like i have now...I've changed everything on the burner-Nozzel is good-tube is good pump is new-Still after burner shuts down-i get oil out of the nozzel as the hot Chamber draws it out!

I also installed a OSV valve a while back--And i do have an oil delay valve installed also!

As for the person who stated his stuff about me being a home owner and not a service man--Please understand that what you said was wrong--check first before you say saomething!

Unknown

It could also be

the oil spray pattern hitting the end cone . We had a similar problem years back . We changed the pump , added an oil delay valve , changed the nozzle assembly , different nozzle sizes and spray patterns . We checked and double checked the end cone size and distance from the nozzle to end cone . We also addded more of a down pitch to the burner towards the boiler . Nothing helped . We finally installed another brand burner and everything ran fine .

On a side note , we installed the burner in another boiler and had no problems with oil seeping out . Never found out the true problem , but I would check the spray and see if its hitting the end cone . Which model Beckett and how old is it ?

BOB WILLARD

END CONE

Ok thanks-Yeah would you believe i even changed the end cone assy-I had one in my stock.. I only notice the problem AFTER the burner shuts down-its then that i flip open the transformer and watch the oil run back below the oil tube(ITS NOT ALOT BUT ENOUGH TO WET THE TUBE ASSY)Its without a doubt being sucked out of the nozzel from the hot combustion chamber..I may just change the entire burner assy..I just installed a new heat exchanger assy what the hell.. Thanks for all your input! Have a great day!!

Andy Morgan_2

Hot Chamber

Is it possible that the blower settings are off causing a chamber that is hotter than should be? What if you downfired it? You seem to have looked at everything else, time to start looking for something "stupid".

Andy Morgan

R. Morgan Mechanical, LLC

rob

Just a thought.....

you might want to give the TechLine at RWB a call on Monday. The number is 1-800-OIL-BURN. I just want to offer a hand, but is the nozzle adapter installed properly? orientated up per the arrow. I was taught that problem after-drip is caused by air pockets in the nozzle that the residual heat causes to expand and push out. I assuming that you considered all of the other normal/obvious solutions. Have seen this drip scenario on Rheem upflows and Sys2000. Sys2000 have no check in the adapter, ended up going with Tigerloop (air-eliminator) and correct downward pitch of air tube. Good luck.... BTW... I think www.firedragon and Mr. Lanthier might also be albe to help you...

J.C.A._3

Mark,

I'm going to take this as a bonified "quest for advice" and give you my personal advice, and a couple of questions.
#1. Have you checked the pump pressure and found it to be at factory spec.?(Underfired burners vs.installed nozzles can't attain specified appropriate stack temps.)

#2.Does the chimney /power venter work as specified ?(in short order.. are the flue passages clear, and does the venting method perform to determined specs. for the unit?)
#3 Has anything in the home/buisness changed in the time since last service?(have there been any new appliances added to the fold? draft fans for a new stove, whole house fan, downdraft grill set up for a stove etc...).

The way you're describing the problem, it seems that the heat that should not be there on shutdown , has reared its ugly head. If All else fails,(all things being shown not to be any different) my advice would be to look into a new primary control. This should include a pre-purge and the longest post-purge you can get.

Personally, I would be looking to the venting. If this unit performed without a problem previously, I would suspect STRONGLY the chimney,or some new air infiltration addition that is causing a negative pressure in the boiler room. Chris

BOB WILLARD

NOZZLE

Ok--I've changed the pump-its has a pressure of 100.. I installed a new heat exchanger and combustion chamber-the stack is new and the chimney is cleaner then most peoples homes! When the burner shuts down and i flip open the Transformer i can see the cherry red glow of the Chamber-and if i watch for about 30 seconds i start to see a slight bit of oil bleeding down the burner tube closer to the back half of the nozzle assy.. Somehow the heat is pulling a few drops of oil out of the nozzle and its running back behind the nozzle.. Its slight but its there.. Has no effect on how the unit runs....Pump/nozzle/chimney/air/ everything is 100%!

I have an oil delay valve and i have a osv installed....

I personally dont believe the oil is totally shutting off 100% when the unit shuts down-I think a drop or two is dribbling out and thats what i'm seeing..
Do they make an adaptor that will screw into the nozzle-in place of the screen-that shuts off the oil..I thought i saw something like that in a Sid harvys made by Delavan..

Oh well-thanks for the help......... Mark

joe_14

drip


how about trying a control with a two minute post purge to cool down the chamber. such as a carlin 6020002s or a honeywell 7184p.

good luck


joeg.

BOB WILLARD

THANKS!

Glenn Harrison_2

Hago makes the Eco-Valve,

and yes Sid Harvey's sells them.

You can check them out at http://www.hagonozzles.com/documents/service-download-literature/ecovalvesellsheet.pdf

You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open this file.

Hope it helps.

PS, you might want to post this question at the discussion board at www.oiltechtalk.com. You might get some additional suggestions to your problem.

BOB WILLARD

OIL DRIP

THANKS GLENN