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Uneven Heating
Marguerite ~ From Brooklyn ~
Member Posts: 38
Dear Everyone,
Greetings. I am a homeowner. I have a gas steam heating system, with radiators that are a one-pipe system. I have a contract with Keyspan.
The problem in my home is that I have uneven heating throughout. My basement is very warm, the first floor is fine, but the second floor tends to be too cool. In addition, my master bedroom, which is the farthest from the boiler, is so cold that it ranges anywhere from five (5) to eight (8) degrees cooler than the room where the thermostat is located. This radiator has a Gorton Size D air vent installed.
When I had a mercury thermostat, the band-aid on the problem was an adjustment to the heat anticipator by Keyspan. They had the boiler run longer, deliberately overshooting what the thermostat was set for. This enabled the radiator in my bedroom to get hot. Before they did this adjustment, the boiler would shut down just as the radiator was getting hot in this room. This improved the situation, but did not rectify it. I still had a cold bedroom.
Now, I have a digital thermostat and the only choices are fast or slow cycle for the heat anticipator. It is set for a slow cycle. Consequently, I have a new problem on the second floor - the radiators either are just getting hot and the boiler shuts down, or they get plenty hot, but they don't stay hot long enough to heat sufficiently.
I have been calling different manufacturers to educate myself and to try and determine what my problem is. The Field Supervisors at Keyspan think it is a balancing problem and that the thermostat is being satisfied too quickly. I have talked with White Rodgers, Weil McLain, Hoffman and Gorton.
Ken at Gorton is helping me balance my heating system. I have some changes to make, which include a tweaking of a few air vent sizes on some radiators; larger air vent sizes to the riser (from a Maid O'Mist adjustable to a Gorton No. 1) and to the quick vent (from a Hoffman 45 to a Gorton No. 2); as well as installing insulation to the pipes in the basement.
Hopefully, this will solve my problem.
Additionally, I have been concerned about radiator size. I have been suspicious that the radiator in my cold bedroom is too small.
Does anyone know the formula for calculating this, so that I can determine correct sizes of the radiators in my home and rule this out as a possible problem (either too large or too small)?
Also, any recommendations on the pipe insulation, i.e. brand, specifications, etc.?
For your information, I have included as an Attachment a document I put together for Ken that gives the layout of my home heating system, as well as additional facts that aid in the analysis of the problem.
I would appreciate any advice, or comments that you may have regarding anything in my posting to The Wall.
Thank you very much. Take care.
Best regards,
~ Marguerite ~
From Brooklyn
Greetings. I am a homeowner. I have a gas steam heating system, with radiators that are a one-pipe system. I have a contract with Keyspan.
The problem in my home is that I have uneven heating throughout. My basement is very warm, the first floor is fine, but the second floor tends to be too cool. In addition, my master bedroom, which is the farthest from the boiler, is so cold that it ranges anywhere from five (5) to eight (8) degrees cooler than the room where the thermostat is located. This radiator has a Gorton Size D air vent installed.
When I had a mercury thermostat, the band-aid on the problem was an adjustment to the heat anticipator by Keyspan. They had the boiler run longer, deliberately overshooting what the thermostat was set for. This enabled the radiator in my bedroom to get hot. Before they did this adjustment, the boiler would shut down just as the radiator was getting hot in this room. This improved the situation, but did not rectify it. I still had a cold bedroom.
Now, I have a digital thermostat and the only choices are fast or slow cycle for the heat anticipator. It is set for a slow cycle. Consequently, I have a new problem on the second floor - the radiators either are just getting hot and the boiler shuts down, or they get plenty hot, but they don't stay hot long enough to heat sufficiently.
I have been calling different manufacturers to educate myself and to try and determine what my problem is. The Field Supervisors at Keyspan think it is a balancing problem and that the thermostat is being satisfied too quickly. I have talked with White Rodgers, Weil McLain, Hoffman and Gorton.
Ken at Gorton is helping me balance my heating system. I have some changes to make, which include a tweaking of a few air vent sizes on some radiators; larger air vent sizes to the riser (from a Maid O'Mist adjustable to a Gorton No. 1) and to the quick vent (from a Hoffman 45 to a Gorton No. 2); as well as installing insulation to the pipes in the basement.
Hopefully, this will solve my problem.
Additionally, I have been concerned about radiator size. I have been suspicious that the radiator in my cold bedroom is too small.
Does anyone know the formula for calculating this, so that I can determine correct sizes of the radiators in my home and rule this out as a possible problem (either too large or too small)?
Also, any recommendations on the pipe insulation, i.e. brand, specifications, etc.?
For your information, I have included as an Attachment a document I put together for Ken that gives the layout of my home heating system, as well as additional facts that aid in the analysis of the problem.
I would appreciate any advice, or comments that you may have regarding anything in my posting to The Wall.
Thank you very much. Take care.
Best regards,
~ Marguerite ~
From Brooklyn
0
Comments
-
can someone tell me in a one pipe steam radiator system what water in the radiator causes, and should you disconnect and drain water. (I think at one time they were not tilted correctly and therefore got water in them. Thank you.0 -
Marguerite
If you haven't yet,I would go to the Books & more link on the left and order dan's steam books. 99.9% of the information that you need or would want on your steam system is in them, presented in a way,as only Dan can, that penetrates even my thick skull. By the way we keep them on the truck, that how useful they are.0 -
The Gorton #2
is the biggest main vent made today. It looks like you have a rather long steam main and this vent will get the steam to the end of the main quickly. Once this is done, each radiator vent only has to vent the radiator it serves, and the pipe leading from the main to that radiator.
Sizing your radiator vents will be a snap once the #2 is on the job. You probably won't need the larger #C and #D vents.
You definitely need to insulate those pipes. Use Fiberglass pipe insulation (any brand) with walls 1 inch thick. Normally this type of insulation is available only to contractors, but even so it will pay to have it installed.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
A little bit
in the bottom of a radiator probably won't hurt anything. But if too much gets in there, the radiator will bang. Also, the boiler may shut down on low water if there's no automatic feeder, since the water is being held in the radiators.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Reply To: Radiator Size, Balancing The System & Pipe Insulation
Dear Steam Head,
Thank you so very much for your prompt reply to my situation. I greatly appreciate it.
What is your name, so that I can address you properly?
My local plumbing supply store only stocks the Fiberglass ½ inch wall insulation. Do you think this will be sufficient? If so, how much of a difference will there be in protecting me from heat loss? Does half the thickness equate to 50% less protection, or more than half the protection. Is it significant enough that I am being penny wise and pound-foolish?
The advantage to me in using the ½ inch wall insulation is that I can install it right away and for the cost of parts only (for approximately $50; maybe a bit more). Its very cold right now. We are in a deep freeze! I dont know if I can find a professional locally that can do this? Local plumbers would be using many of the same stores that I am. Also, I am concerned about the cost. I live in New York City and everything is expensive here.
FYI, we are having trouble getting the Gorton No. 1 and No. 2 air vents. The local plumbing supplies and hardware do not carry these sizes. I sent an e-mail to Ken at Gorton for a location to buy these.
Once again, thank you. Take care.
Best Regards,
~ Marguerite ~
From Brooklyn0 -
Reply To: Radiator Size, Balancing The System & Pipe Insulation
Dear Earthfire,
Thank you for your prompt reply to my heating woes. I really appreciate it.
I think the suggestions I have thus far will take care of my problem. If not, I will get the book and do more research.
Once again, many thanks. Take care.
Best regards,
~ Marguerite ~
From Brooklyn0 -
Related Inquiry To Rad. Size, Balancing The System & Pipe Insul.
Dear Everyone,
I have another inquiry related to insulating my gas steam heating system pipe.
The pipe in my boiler room closest to the boiler is insulated with asbestos. (It was the continuation of this pipe into the Family Room [23 feet by 16 feet room]) that does not have any insulation at all.) Some of the asbestos is now drying out from age and is opening up like a flower blossom. I am concerned if this is a real health risk or not, because it is beginning to deteriorate?
When I purchased my home, the engineer who inspected it apprised me of the asbestos situation. He said that there was so little of it that I should not be concerned and just leave it alone. I purchased my home 10 years ago this past October.
But, now the asbestos is not in as good condition as it was then. I was thinking I should have it removed and replace it with the Fiberglass, 1-inch wall insulation. Should I do this? Or, is it better to leave well enough alone?
Additionally, a general contractor advised me, that we should just wet down the asbestos thoroughly and wear a protective respirator and we could remove it ourselves. Is this at all advisable?
If not, does anyone know an asbestos removal professional that I can contact in the New York City area that would come and remove it? Preferably some one whose fees are not exorbitant to remedy the situation.
Many thanks and take care.
Best regards,
~ Marguerite ~
From Brooklyn0 -
The 1/2-inch would help
but the 1-inch would be better. Maybe they could order it for you.
Ken at Gorton will sell to you direct if no one in your area handles Gortons.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0
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