Correct installation ?

Gordy

Just wondering if the wall could comment on this install in my home done in 1993. Install was done before I purchased the home. Boiler supplies ceiling and floor radiant 120* max temp for the ceilings from what I have researched.Would like to update anything not considered with in modern compliance.

Mark Hunt

No boiler protection


that I can see. The system as currently piped is allowing low temperature return water back into the boiler.

Because it is a cast iron, non-condensing type boiler, provisions must be made to protect it from low temp return water.

Flue gas will condense in the flue passages, flue pipe and chimney. The condensate is acidic and will deteriorate the boiler and the flue system.

A Primary/Secondary piping configuration should have been installed.

Mark H

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Gordy

Thanks Mark and noted,is there any signs for tell tale damage to look for? I have had the boiler serviced anually and no one has mentioned any problems.

Mark Hunt

Considering the age


of your boiler, the only outward sign would be "staining" on the flue pipe.

I didn't see any in the pics you posted.

What is happening inside your boiler is another issue.

I am glad to hear that you have it serviced annualy, but you are assuming that the person servicing it knows what they are looking at. Remember, they have not said ANYTHING about the current piping configuration. So if they found a build up of white powder on the cast sections, they might just chalk it up as "white soot".

The laws of physics are just that, LAWS, not opinions.

That is an old radiant system, circa 1950, the mixing valve is also original.

You have to protect that boiler from low temp water, that is not an option.

Mark H

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masterplumb

Why

would he have to go with a p/s set up? If your concern is low return temps, couldnt you put a thermal by-pass in and achieve the higher return temps that way? Chris

Mark Hunt

Yes Chris


He could do that, but because I do not know what the normal operating temps of this system are I can not gauge the amount of water that would need to be by-passed.

On warmer days the boiler may never get above condensing so a thermal by-pass won't help. P/S will get the boiler warmer faster.

Mark H

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Gordy

I have pulled the flue off myself and checked the outside of the boiler sections seems fine minor surface rust. For 11 years of service I don't know if this is acceptable.As far as finding someone to make the piping right ugh, noone with that has looked at it seems to think anything needs to be changed I know better from what I have read.Pumping away,No air bleeders should be installed with that type of compression tank,boiler protection,air removal.boiler is set at 160* return temp is as high as 94* supply after mixing valve is as high as 116*.Willing to pay to have the work done but I need to be able to tell them exactly what I want since everyone thinks I should do nothing. Ready to do it myself never sweated copper over 3/4"before though.