better to run short cycles than run steady for economy??

Live/Learn

I have a Burnham V83 firing @ .75@180psi=1.05gph. My home is a 1200 sg ft single story ranch. I also have a finished basement with heat which isn't used much and is not presently heated. After set back overnight my boiler comes on for about 6 min and then stays off for about 6 min due to boiler hitting it's high limit. Is it more economical to run it this way (less run time) or would it be more economical to down size the nozzel to burn .75gph and run longer?

Steve Ebels

Longer run cycles

Are always better for fuel economy's sake. You want to be careful with dropping the nozzle size though. Changing the firing rate will require re-tuning the burner by changing the air settings, draft possibly and may cause problems with condensation due to lower flue temps. This HAS to be done with a combustion analyzer, anything else is just guessing.

DaveGateway

V83 Minimum Firing Rate

The V83 water boiler is shipped with the larger firing rate installed in the burner and the smaller firing rate in the bag. If your heat loss allows you to install the smaller nozzle that will give you the most effieint operation. The net output rating will drop to 71K. If that is enough btu's for your home it would benefit you to do drop to the smaller firing rate.
As stated in above response it will require combustion tested again for proper and efficient operation.

Live/Learn

short vs long cycling

> I have a Burnham V83 firing @ .75@180psi=1.05gph.

> My home is a 1200 sg ft single story ranch. I

> also have a finished basement with heat which

> isn't used much and is not presently heated.

> After set back overnight my boiler comes on for

> about 6 min and then stays off for about 6 min

> due to boiler hitting it's high limit. Is it more

> economical to run it this way (less run time) or

> would it be more economical to down size the

> nozzel to burn .75gph and run longer?

Live/Learn

short vs long cycling

thanks for both of your advices. I would rather use the smaller gph as I'm a real "cheapo" according to most of my friends. ha!ha! The tech, who set it up, liked the better flame with the larger nozzle. I was firing with the smaller nozzle and he changed it back to the larger one . I'd love to purchase an inexpensive test kit so as to be able to adjust myself. I do pretty much all the repairs on the house and the cars. As my handle referes I live to learn all I can about my surroundings.Knowledge is power.

Luke Lefever

it's better for the overall economy for it to short cycle.

Steamhead

V83 hits high limit after 6 minutes?

Sounds like you have something wrong besides the firing rate. Perhaps the system is not moving the heat from the boiler to the rooms. This could be caused by a bad circulator on a hot-water system, or bad air venting on either a steam or hot-water system.

Tell us more about your system- Steam or hot water? What type of radiators?

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Live/Learn

short cycle or long cycle

I have a hot water system with fin type baseboard rads.
I'm not cold starting it. It only shuts down when the boiler temp starts at about 160. and then about 5-6 mins later will be high limit satisfied ,and then stay off for about another 5-6 minutes before it comes back on. The circulator is running all the while the stat is calling for heat. Thanks Again..

Steamhead

Ahhhhh

this boiler also heats the hot water for your faucets, correct? Then have the smaller nozzle installed and the burner tuned to the lower firing rate.

There's no such thing as a cheap combustion analyzer. A good one will set you back at least a grand, then you have to know how to use it properly. It's best to have a pro handle this.

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GaryDidier

short cycling

Rhoyt,
Your boiler is substantially over fired for a 1200 sq/ft ranch .I typically downfire the boilers I service to achieve higher eff. and longer running cycles.To do this you need training and experience in whatever burner you are dealing with. Smaller nozzle, higher pump pressure and setting up with test equipment will accomplish this.
As to the test equipment, it just cost me $400.00 to have my 3 year old pro 125 brought up to par [new o2 sensor and CO sensor] and calibrated. If your interested you can have it for $800.00 dollars. A new one will cost $1200 -$1600 depending on options. And oh yes, the sensors detoriate wheather you use them or not. Good Luck and please dont blow yourself up.
Gary grom Granville