Not enough heat call

Jon_2

It's -10 degrees F here in Northern NY. I have just returned from a service call from a homeowner with a 60 degree house. I really could not believe what I saw there: On the 1 1/4" supply 4" from a 90 degree ell, a taco air scoop with an expansion tank in the bleeder fitting(on top of the air scoop), a new 40 gal. indirect hot water heater piped up with 3/4" on one zone, and the entire house in a series 3/4" loop for the second zone. The house is a single story 3 bedroom ranch on a full basement, appox. 2500 sq. ft.right on the bank of the St. Lawrence River. They bought the house last Aug. and have been remodeling plus a 600 sq. ft. addition and had the electrican install the indirect hot water heater and add more baseboard in some areas and redo the piping on the boiler. The old pipes are still in place, and it looked like there was three zones on zone valves before the repiping. And of course, the new piping has the two pumps on the return just above the input of the make-up water valve. They said it has just been barely warm in the house, but with the -10 O/A temp the house is rather cool. I'm afraid I was a bearer of sad news, for I recommended doing a heat loss to determine the btu requirements in each room, acertain the baseboard installed is adaquate and the boiler is large enough for the job, split up the series loop and repipe the near boiler mess with a Spirovent, make-up water and expansion tank under it, pumps on the supply side and increase the piping to the indirect tank to 1" as it should be, and add a LWCO. It will be interesting to see what they will do

Jon_2

Not enough heat call

It's -10 degrees F here in Northern NY. I have just returned from a service call from a homeowner with a 60 degree house. I really could not believe what I saw there: On the 1 1/4" supply 4" from a 90 degree ell, a taco air scoop with an expansion tank in the bleeder fitting(on top of the air scoop), a new 40 gal. indirect hot water heater piped up with 3/4" on one zone, and the entire house in a series 3/4" loop for the second zone. The house is a single story 3 bedroom ranch on a full basement, appox. 2600 sq. ft.right on the bank of the St. Lawrence River. They bought the house last Aug. and have been remodeling plus a 600 sq. ft. addition and had the electrican install the indirect hot water heater and add more baseboard in some areas and redo the piping on the boiler. The old pipes are still in place, and it looked like there was three zones on zone valves before the repiping. And of course, the new piping has the two pumps on the return just above the input of the make-up water valve. They said it has just been barely warm in the house, but with the -10 O/A temp the house is rather cool. I'm afraid I was a bearer of sad news, for I recommended doing a heat loss to determine the btu requirements in each room, acertain the baseboard installed is adaquate and the boiler is large enough for the job, split up the series loop and repipe the near boiler mess with a Spirovent, make-up water and expansion tank under it, pumps on the supply side and increase the piping to the indirect tank to 1" as it should be, and add a LWCO. It will be interesting to see what they will do

Josh M.

Unbelievable. Tin-knockers no doubt!

Wayco Wayne_2

Right on the St Lawrence

is no place to goof around. My Grandmother used to have a farm on an island on the St Lawrence. Can you say wind chill?? Set em straight Jon, and make sure you charge enough for your expertise. It sounds like a lot of work. :)WW

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Mark Eatherton1

Worse yet...

The ELECTRICIAN did it... Guess maybe we P.O.'s them by doing THEIR job, and now they're trying to take over OUR jobs...

ME

Bud_14

Wash your mouth out wit soap...

If it were tin knockers...they'd be nice and warm with a varible speed two stage full comfort system...including a nice humidifier so you wont have to balance dem buckets of water on the outragiously large contraptions call radiators...so there!

Bud_14

I tried a boiler once

but when we turned on the water and filled the system up..all the joints on the ductwork leaked..can't figger this water stuff out for the life of me:) I'm sure you are intelegent enough to tell me where i went wrong, please

Us tinners...were simply amazing, hey

Bud

Earthfire

Bud

If the tinknocker would have done his job right and sealed the ductwork properly it wouldn't have leak, might have fell on the floor from the weight but it shouldn't have leaked.Next time use some ductdope!!!!LOL

Earthfire

Its COPPER ,ain't it

What the hey is your problem???? wire is copper, pipe is copper. it's all the same ain't it??? And besides HomeDepot sells it, so its got to be nothing to since they don't even run a training class for that stuff. If it was hard HD or Lowes would have a saturday class like they do for that hard stuff like how to paint a closet or stick contactpaper on a shelf.LOL

Mark Wolff

Duct Butter

You forgot to use the duct butter! To save heating energy, pipe the ducting into the bathtub for a continuous hot water bath too! Thinking like this will make for happy customers and lots of work; callbacks that is!

MikeB34

WHAT???

says the electrician did it!!!

Jon_2

Electican did it

The electrican told them he would repipe the system so they could heat the addition and add an indirect 40 gal. indirect HWH, so he removed the prior 3 zone valves and series looped all the baseboard on to one pump and added a second pump for the indirect HWH. He did not own a level either, none of his piping is perpendicular nor level. I wish I had a digital camera for the whole piping mess is an original in its own right.