Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Installing the correct size (steam) main line valve
John_28
Member Posts: 1
To all concern:
I have a single pipe residential steam system. I recently redirected an existing feed line to an existing radiator on the second floor due to construction. The radiator was supplied by a 1 1/4 inch feed line. I reduced it to a 1 inch feed. Im now getting water hammering and the radiator valve is spitting water. The pitch on the radiator is at least 1 1/2 inches tords the supply. Should I install another main vent valve or should I just move to Florida. I like to thank ALL for taking the time with the above mention. Thanks John
I have a single pipe residential steam system. I recently redirected an existing feed line to an existing radiator on the second floor due to construction. The radiator was supplied by a 1 1/4 inch feed line. I reduced it to a 1 inch feed. Im now getting water hammering and the radiator valve is spitting water. The pitch on the radiator is at least 1 1/2 inches tords the supply. Should I install another main vent valve or should I just move to Florida. I like to thank ALL for taking the time with the above mention. Thanks John
0
Comments
-
a 1 1/4\" valve will supply a 55 sq ft radiator.
1" isn't generally used for one pipe steam, for the reasons that you described.
Noel0 -
My 1925 house has 1" pipes supplying the smaller radiators in the bathrooms. In one case the pipe's run is very convoluted, going through at least five one inch elbows and several long horizontal runs with very little slope before getting to the radiator. I would not have believed it could work, but it does and works fine.
So if you reduce the size of the radiator so that less steam needs to get through, it might stop spitting and banging. However, the room might not get warm enough.0 -
Slower vent might be worth a try
Another idea that would be worth a try: put a slow vent on the radiator. Maybe that would slow down the steam enough to stop the banging. Not likely, but cheap and worth the shot. (If I recall correctly, Hoffman #40 is a slow vent).0 -
pipe pitch
you say the radiator is pitched right but (other than being smaller than before) are all horizontal runs in the new riser pitched enough? I take it 1 1/4 pipe is not an option. Can the riser be insulated (if it is not already) to at least reduce the condensation forming in it?0 -
pipe
did you run steel or copper pipe if copper you should insulate it and re check your pipe pitch ,what your pressurtol set for 1/2 cut in 1 lb cut out is your rad pitched towards your valve what type of valve and did your install a bushing in the rad that might make the rad hold to much condensate and cause water hamer when it finally comes back you may have to install a seperate drip for that riser don't give up to easy good luckR.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.5K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 423 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 96 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.5K Gas Heating
- 101 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.5K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 929 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 384 Solar
- 15.1K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 48 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements