VS9601

Unknown

just had a phone call the very same thing on Smart Valve. We had the tech run a dedicated wire from "C" terminal (common) directly to the valve body of the Smart Valve. It is now working, this tells me there is something wrong with the ground circuit.

This unit was on a Armstrong Furnace but the problem seems to be the same. This had been running for two years and all of a sudden this starts to happen.

Dave_16

SV9601 Gas Valve

Since Frankie types like a turtle he has asked my to post this for him. He has a Peerless GV08 Nat Gas Boiler with a Honeywell Smart Valve VS9601. The problem is he has 24 volts coming out of the ignitor connector but as soon as he plugs the iginitor in, the voltage drops out. When he hot wires it, the ignitor glows. He has replaced the gas valve, changed the ignitors and still the same problem.

Does anyone have any idea? He has contacted Honeywell and Bill did fax him the installation instructions but they are no help.

don_7

Check your main voltage and see if the polarity is correct.

Unknown

Smart Valve

I agree with Don, also make sure it is wired correctly. As you hold the connector with the clip to the right the upper left terminal should be 24 volts "hot" from the R terminal on transformer. The upper right terminal a "D" shape is 24 volt common.Those are typically uninterrupted voltage. The lower right hand terminal should be the interrupted power through the thermostat or high limit circuit assuming the thermostat is probably bringing in a relay. The lower left hand terminal should be blank.

One of the things that happens with the pilot harness is AC voltage sometimes feeds over onto the microamp wire. I have taped the two igniter wires and have found that solves the problem sometimes.

Is this a brand new job or has it been running and all of a sudden we now have this problem??

By the way small point but the valve number is SV not VS "VS" is powerpile.

Dave_16

worked fine for a week

Everything was fine, then I get a no heat call, got voltage going in , and out, I cut the wires to the igniter,(not the flame sensor) and stripped them back. When I put the ignitor plug back in the gas valve I have 26volts going to the leads, when I put the ignitor back on to the leads the voltage totally disappears!!!!!Tried different gas valves and ignitors same result, so I did a little hot wiring, to make the thing work, one of my co workers went there today and disconnected my hot wire and now the ignitor is glowing!!! go figure

Dale

What was changed

Since the valve and the ignitors have been changed and since you seem to drop too much voltage when calling for the ignitor I think you have a bad 120 or 24 volt power supply. I would put a volt meter on the 120 inlet and see what it does on a call for ignitor, if that is OK put the meter on the 24 volt c and r output and see what that goes to on the ignitor call, if those are OK there may be a wiring shot between the tfmr and the valve.

Unknown

I believe that igniter is

a 24 volt igniter. Silicon Nitride low resistance 3 to 5 ohms, they never go much above 10 ohms and when they do should be changed. That is a Q3450 pilot on that valve system.

Glenn Harrison_2

Thanks, for that little tip, Tim

Since we install a lot of Armstrong units, I'll keep that in mind if I ever come accross this problem. If these units are starting to lose common, I hope this isn't another round of loose molex sockets in smart valves.

Unknown

In addition to ground

problem the wire from pressure switch into the electronic board was loose and making contact intermittently. Another reason why I do not like to pull mated plugs out of controls. I use a paper clip attached to alligator clip on meter lead and go in from the back side of the mated plug.

RichW

SV

Is this a damp basement? I've seen bad connections at the connectors due to this. Check 24v at the circuit board to the SV under load. Try contact cleaner in the molex. May also be a broken wire with intermittent connection. I have a tester that checks 24v com,24v hot, EFT and 24v switch. It also lets you check voltage and current to the HSI as well as uA at the flame sensor. Life is a lot easier when you can see all of these instantly.

Good Luck,

RichW

Dave_16

I've done it all

Thank you all for your replies. I checked polarity, voltage in and out of the gas valve....all correct. As I stated earlier it worked fine for a week then bang, I hot wired like someone else had stated bringing the common to the ignitor...all wwas good, next thing the boil starts banging, my co-worker went there and dicconected my jumper and all has worked fine since which is now a wek,,,,,,,,,,,,,go figure, This valve is on an 8 section. peerlees gas boiler in a big old house. Thanks to all for your knowledge. Merry Christmas!
Frankie Sev